A Calendar for the Curious (and Mildly Overstimulated)

Now live: Barcelona Events Calendar

One of the great things about living in Barcelona is that there’s always something happening. One of the confusing things about living in Barcelona is that there’s always something happening. You step out to grab bread and walk into a parade. You try to meet a friend and get blocked by a troop of devils with firecrackers. It’s charming. It’s chaotic. It’s frequently loud.

So we made a page for it.

The new Barcelona Events Calendar is our attempt to make sense of the city’s non-stop cultural agenda—from the big-ticket items like Festes de Gràcia and Primavera Sound, to smaller, weirder gems like the Sant Medir candy-throwing cavalcade or the inexplicably hypnotic human tower rehearsals.

It’s not exhaustive (neither are we), but we’ll be adding to it regularly. And know that we didn’t just copy this all from Wikipedia while nursing a cortado. No, we worked hard on it and got most of it from ChatGPT while nursing a vermut! Think of it as a rolling archive of what makes Barcelona tick: the saints, the drummers, the neighborhood rivalries, the castellers who you watch no matter how many times you come across them.

We made this for anyone who’s ever asked, “Wait, why are there fireworks again?”—and also for our future selves, who will inevitably forget.

Check it out, and if you know an event we’ve missed (especially one involving human towers or some sort of tasting something), let us know. We’re easily tempted.

Festa Major de Gràcia: Day 1 of our move to Barcelona — August 2020
Jean Bouin 10K: Barcelona’s Oldest Race with a family visitor — December 2024

For Christmas, Kate gave me a spiral-bound book and a yearlong reservation. Not to one place, but to fifty-two. The gift was a plan—her plan for us—to explore a new corner of Barcelona every week via lunch or dinner from our “Want to Go” list.

Each week, Kate picks the spot, often with reservations made far in advance, and logs the details in our “52 Citas” notebook. I show up and enjoy. Sometimes there’s a coffee stop beforehand, sometimes a cocktail afterward, and often both.

The notebook lives on our bar shelf and fills steadily—one page per week, one neighborhood at a time. She notes the dates, the dishes, and maybe an anecdote or two — the waiter who switched from Spanish to Dutch mid-sentence, margaritas that were just a little too good for a Tuesday, an Orient Express-themed speak-easy, a photo peep-show behind a curtain, and meeting new people and places. There are some crossed-out plans, a few bonus outings, and at least one entry that ends with “bought antiquities.” That one did have to do with margaritas.

That’s the magic: exploring both favorite and new parts of the city, in bite-sized pieces. What started as a gift has become a rhythm. A choose-your-own-adventure (often with wine and tapas).

Kate’s the mastermind. I’m the sidekick. And together, we’re slowly eating our way through Barcelona—one amazing cita at a time.

Cita 16: Takearte -> Origin -> Primate Bakehouse

Takearte

Takearte is a taquería that fits the bill for a quick lunch when you have a big day. The margaritas are served on tap.
Website


Origin

It was fine. Hah! Had lots of potential and good ratings, but didn’t make the Coffee Guide.​


Primate Bakehouse

A charming bakery in Sant Antoni, Primate Bakehouse is known for its artisanal sourdough bread and delectable pastries. And some pretty good homemade peanut butter.
Website

Cita 15: Mesa Lobo -> Orient Express

Mesa Lobo

A French-meets-Nordic bistro in Eixample that is just the right kind of elevated. We had an early dinner (8:00) so we could meet Q coming in from London.
Website


Orient Express Cocktail Bar

We still had some time to kill. This place had a full theatrical commitment to the train theme, right down to drink carts, conductors’ hats, and a view of the Croatian countryside. One part cocktail, one part Wes Anderson daydream.
Instagram

Cita 14: Entrepreneur -> Bricks

Entrepreneur

Modern food for modern minds. This Poblenou spot feels like it was designed by someone who owns three startups. But no sign out front, so maybe a marketing class would be a good idea.
Website


Bricks

Cozy café and another sign-challenged location. The girls next to us were targeted by pigeons, but they say that’s good luck.
Instagram

Cita 12: El Pa Torrra

El Pa Torrat

A Galvany mainstay since near Turo Park. It’s classic Catalan—bacalao, croquetas, and enough wood-paneled gravitas to make you sit up straight. I think the guy in the table next to us has been there since 1981.
Website

Cita 11: Bitter -> Dolores

Bitter Cocktail Bar

A Sant Antoni hideout with herby cocktails and enough charm to warrant its own design blog post. So I’ve heard.
Website


Señora Dolores

Natural wines again–so we went for Vermut! Fried delights, vintage décor, and we finally found out why people kept looking behind the curtains.
Website

Cita 10: Metl -> Ombú -> DShop -> Ancestral

Metl

Short menu, big heart. Mexican comfort food in Poblenou, cooked like somebody’s abuela lives upstairs.
Instagram


Ombú

Specialty coffee in a snug corner of the city. If you don’t like this spot, there are at least four more coffee places on this block alone!
Website


DShop

Located inside the Disseny Hub, this design store sells the kind of gifts you take photos of. Found Cam cool futbolin hooks and the patio a cool water picture.
Website


Ancestral

Craft brew & vermouth. I guess they have tapas too, but we come for the drinks. This one isn’t new, but was a perfect spot to linger before ending the cita.
Instagram

Cita 9: Glug

Glug

Mostly natural wines, a super-dope tiled bar, and a Catalan-Italian flavor profile that says “we’re not choosing sides.” Bonus points for being fun to say. And God Damn, maybe the best French onion soup I’ve had.
Website

Cita 8: Elocuente Café & Libros -> Cafe Del Centre -> Forn Sarret

Elocuente Café & Libros

Books, brews, and just the right level of hush.
Instagram


Café del Centre

A 150-year-old institution still wearing its original woodwork. Order a vermut and pretend you’re in a black-and-white film.
Website


Forn Sarret

Architectural pastry. Historic façade, flaky interior. The kind of bakery where you end up buying bread or a pastry just to carry it around.
Instagram

Cita 7: La Pachuca -> Coto

La Pachuca

Almost all the way to the Mediterranean in Gotic, La Pachuca has margaritas, tacos, and enough neon energy to qualify as cardio. Loud in all the right ways.
Website


Coto

Coffee shop meets concept store. The espresso’s tight, the merch is local, and the vibe whispers, “hey, you should buy that t-shirt with the little piggy on it.” I did. Related to a favorite place in El Born… look for the streamers.
Website

Cita 6: Cosa -> Oido

Cosa

Italian-roast coffee and artisanal pastries served in a space for caffeinated bliss.​


Oído

A love letter to the 1980s, complete with communal tables and culinary nostalgia. And a kinda cranky local – very Gràcia. It had a thing for tapas and vintage signage.
Instagram

Cita 5: Malparit

Malparit

Catalan cuisine with a bit of a spin. Sitting at the bar by the kitchen is a perfect place to watch the chefs who are dialed in on their dishes. Some really fun things to try and lots of good wine options.
Website

Cita 4: Malhumor -> Osom Nou

Malhumor

Don’t be fooled by the name—this place serves brunch with a smile (and a Dutch accent). Simple, and HUGE portions.
Instagram


Osom Nou

One of Poblenou’s hip, Instagram-friendly coffee spots. It will be part of our “Día de los Cortados.” Details to come…
Instagram

Cita 3: Bar El Pipino -> La Gratitud

Bar El Pepino

Natural wine is not our favorite thing. But the owner found us a good one! A relaxed energy and the perfect level of tight and crowded. A good new find in Gràcia.
Instagram


La Gratitud

On Carrer del Torrent de l’Olla, and as vibrant as its name suggests. We were not planning to hit this spot, but it called out to us, with one of our favorite Mercè posters over the bar.
Instagram

Cita 2

Cita 1: Vermuteria Lou -> Casa Inés -> Navy Coffee Bar -> Origo

Vermuteria Lou

A moody little spot in Gràcia with vintage signage and low lighting. It isn’t trying to look old, it is old. We toasted my Dad (Lou) with a nice vermouth.
Website


Casa Inés

Sleek, understated, and as we have learned since—quietly confident in its absinthe game. Next time!
Instagram


Navy Coffee Bar

Scandinavian in design and disposition—stoic espresso, minimalist seating, small and friendly.
Website


Origo

Rust-colored, bread-forward, and teetering nicely between design showroom and a breakfast nook.
Website

What a great time with family in Barcelona! First-time visitors, repeat visitors, and long-term visitors! Absolutely amazing. We were so excited to have Anna and her family become locals along with us for a while, and hopefully, just the start of their time here. Thanksgiving and Christmas lights in BCN, and a quick trip to see friends in Porto. Just the best.

New friends, old friends, family, America’s Cup, Costa Brava, and settling into our new home made for an unforgettable summer.

As I was enjoying oysters, a glass of wine, and a good book, my mind began to wander. “I feel like I’ve been here before.” I set down my book and pulled out my phone to look at our family “Been There Done That” Google Maps list. And I had been there. Not in that restaurant, but in that location. I knew it! That caused me to start browsing — finding other places that have changed in the time we’ve been here. There were some places I had been to as three different restaurants.

The city is organic and always changing. You might walk by a closed door a dozen times without giving it any thought, only to walk by and see a brilliant new restaurant or shop reaching far back into the space behind each building as if it has always been there. Or a favorite place that closes, only to be replaced by another favorite just a few weeks later. Or sometimes you don’t even notice an absence until something new pops up.

Our block, in the center of this photograph, is always changing. This project aims to follow and memorialize those changes over the course of months and years.

Memorializing our block

As I try to remember, “What was here before?” I realize I have an opportunity to memorialize the places on our new block from the start of our time here. So that’s what I am setting out to do. I grabbed our low-res Leica and began to photograph the places, walking around only our block. Since shops and restaurants have a – let’s call it a loosey-goosey schedule, I have grabbed some missing spots with my phone and clumsily tried to degrade them to match. But I plan to replace those with the same camera when I am able.

The four sides—Sea, Right, Mountain, and Left—each have their own personality. As they change, I plan to take new photos and follow the progression of each, seeing how our block changes over the months and years. This post, much like our block, will evolve as places change. Some already have.


The sea side


The right side


The mountain side


The left side

When you’re walking around Barcelona, first, make sure to look up. The architecture is amazing and it is easy to miss a beautiful building or view. But don’t forget to look down too. Barcelona sidewalks are created with different tiles in different neighborhoods. We haven’t discovered all of them, but we have found quite a few!

The most common is the Flor de Barcelona (Barcelona Flower). This tile features a flower with four petals, a design symbolizing Barcelona, and is even a part of one of my tattoos. It’s one of the most iconic and widely recognized tiles in the city and is becoming a favorite for art and souvenirs.

When work needs to be done on pipes or wires, they usually just jackhammer up the tiles, make repairs, and lay new ones down. We have had more than a couple friends dumpster-dive to find good tiles to bring home.

Side Story

On Saint Jordi, we found this little decorated tile, which fit the occasion perfectly. If you’re not familiar with Saint Jordi (and we weren’t until we moved here), it is a celebration of Sant Jordi (Saint George), the patron saint of Catalonia. The celebration commemorates the legend of Saint George slaying a dragon to save a princess. Now, it is a celebration of Books & Roses. Men traditionally give roses to women, and women give books to men, although nowadays, it’s common for both genders to exchange both roses and books. This custom combines the celebration of love with a celebration of literature.

@pablosky_yksolbap

Back to the tiles

Here are some of the other cool tiles we have found around town.

And every once in a while, we will find a tile laid upside down, showing the designer’s initials.

Gaudí

Beyond the Flor de Barcelona, the other most famous tile is the Panot Gaudí. Designed by Antoni Gaudí, this tile is decorated with motifs of marine life, such as starfish, algae, and ammonites. If you have been to La Sagrada Familia, you know how everything he did was very organic and incorporated nature.

These are harder to come by, but we did find an abandoned one once when work was being done on a pedestrian street. It is proudly displayed on our patio.

Now look back up

If you see a tile with this red circle, it signifies a building of historical significance, so it is a good time to look back up and check out the architecture again!

Spring was full of festivals and visitors– it was amazing seeing so many of our friends. Oh, and we bought an apartment!

Always a random festival somewhere in town.

Christmas in Barcelona before heading off to Bad Gastein, Austria for some snowboarding, skiing and very Wes Anderson views.

Enjoying Thanksgiving with friends from the state and friends from Barcelona.

We were lucky enough to visit the Living Table (Chef’s Table) at Disfrutar twice in the fall of 2023 — with two sets of amazing friends. Barcelona is home to countless great restaurants and lots of Michelin stars, but Disfrutar is something special. Earning its status as a Three Michelin Star restaurant in between our visits and named the World’s Best Restaurant in 2024 by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants — each visit was a six-hour experience to remember!