This is quite a project Kate took on last Christmas! Wow.

You can read all about it here.

Have there been any missed citas? Not really.

Maybe a few that were a bit more impromptu and didn’t make the notebook. And many that happened along the way on adventures outside of Barcelona. A sundowner in the bush, a picnic on a sailboat along the coast, or a quaint bistro in one of the numerous places we were lucky enough to visit in 2025. Then there were the places we got to experience with family and friends. Not as intimate, but still some highlights of the year.

And the re-citas — those places that were not new, but favorites and worth a second… or tenth visit. Lots of those too. Barcelona, in particular, is never-ending with amazing food and vibes for a good date or gathering with friends. Having Kate pick and plan so many for just the two of us to be together and experience a new place was amazing. It is going to be hard to top 52 Citas!

Here are just a few we’ve been able to share in 2025, that are not part of the “official” 52 citas.

Beyond the other trips, summer and fall were busy. We made it to London a couple of times to see Lilly and catch a Vikings victory, and had visits from both friends and family. We had an amazing Thanksgiving, and were just exploring.

Not that long ago, Poblenou had almost no decent coffee spots. But thatโ€™s changed. With the startups came the coffee shops. Now it is common to trip over three or four on a single block โ€” all local, all unique, all worth trying.

So we did the only reasonable thing: made a day of it. I love a theme and a logo! Eight stops. Seven cortados. One vermut (we needed to calm those heartbeats down somehow). A medley of tiny stools. And no two cortados alike.

We called it Dรญa de los Cortados. Everyone got a stamp after each cafรฉ, and by mid-afternoon our hands looked like weโ€™d been rubbing up against poison ivy. Lilly documented the groupโ€™s descent from “chill curiosity” (#1), evolving into “lots of ‘ideas'” (3) and what she described as โ€œsquirrely / ADHDโ€ (#4), and finally โ€œramblingโ€ (#6). Accurate.

Along the way, we rated the coffee (and sometimes the chairs), coined new terms, debated whether Michael invented pants, learned from Anna that, “I’ve had four cortados, I can do what I want.”

The day was a long, zigzag walk with warm cups, familiar voices, and the creation of new stories.

With a cortado. Or seven.


Our rating:

Here are the ratings and how we described each place. Yeah, sometimes people used numbers to describe. It is what it is.

Pรฉcora

Ratings: 8, 9, 9, 8, 7
Look & feel: genuine, 7, eclectic, dystopian

Frutas Selectas (Nomad)

Ratings: 7, 7, 9, 7, 7
Look & feel: mid-century modern, madmen, 6

Ombu

Ratings: 6, 4, 3, 3, 7
Look & feel: Aunt Ruth, earthy, inviting, fern, 3

Otsu

Ratings: 6, 9, 5, 8, 9
Look & feel: Danish sauna, 8

Taulat 44

Ratings: 6, 6, 5, 3, 4
Look & feel: millennial, 4, 5

Sensorial

Ratings: 7, 7, 6, 7, 7
Look & feel: chill, dark, dim, hipster

Ugoโ€™s Corner

Ratings: 7, 8, 8, 9, 9
Look & feel: friendly


This post is a bit for me, actually. This city immerses you in art, and I’m always curious to learn more. So I did a little research project to highlight some of the main influential artists who were touched by Barcelona. Then I realized it might be a good read for friends and family visiting us, so I’m sharing it here…

“Ramon Casas and Pere Romeu on a Tandemโ€ (1897), a painting by Ramon Casas

The Artists, Architects, and Writers Who Made Barcelona Iconic

Barcelonaโ€™s creative spirit has inspired architects, painters, and writers since Roman times, but we’ll focus on the last century or so, from Modernisme to the present. This guide highlights notable figuresโ€”past and presentโ€”who were either from Barcelona or spent significant time shaping its artistic and cultural identity.


Architects

Modernisme Era (Late 19th โ€“ Early 20th Century)

Antoni Gaudรญ (1852โ€“1926) โ€“ Catalan architect and the leading figure of Modernisme. Gaudรญ spent most of his life in Barcelona, where he designed its most iconic landmarks, including the Sagrada Famรญlia, Park Gรผell, Casa Batllรณ, and Casa Milร  (La Pedrera). His organic, nature-inspired style defines the cityโ€™s skyline.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sagrada_Fam%C3%ADlia

Lluรญs Domรจnech i Montaner (1850โ€“1923) โ€“ Born in Barcelona, Domรจnech designed ornate landmarks such as the Palau de la Mรบsica Catalana and Hospital de Sant Pau, both UNESCO World Heritage Sites. His work blended structural innovation with rich decoration.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palau_de_la_M%C3%BAsica_Catalana

Josep Puig i Cadafalch (1867โ€“1956) โ€“ Another Modernisme master, Puig designed Casa Amatller, Casa de les Punxes, and Casa Martรญ (home to the famed Quatre Gats cafรฉ). His mix of neo-Gothic and Catalan modernist elements helped define Barcelonaโ€™s architectural charm.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Casa_Amatller

Late 20th โ€“ 21st Century (Contemporary Architecture)

Ricardo Bofill (1939โ€“2022) โ€“ Born in Barcelona, Bofill founded the Taller de Arquitectura and became a global name for bold postmodern designs. His Walden 7 apartment complex near Barcelona and work on El Prat Airport showcase his signature monumental style.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Walden_7

Enric Miralles (1955โ€“2000) โ€“ A Barcelona native known for his imaginative, organic designs. He co-designed the Santa Caterina Market renovation and created the acclaimed Scottish Parliament Building. His projects continue to influence contemporary architecture worldwide.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santa_Caterina_market


Painters & Sculptors

Modernisme and Avant-garde (Late 19th โ€“ Early 20th Century)

Santiago Rusiรฑol (1861โ€“1931) โ€“ Painter, writer, and one of Cataloniaโ€™s great Modernistes. A Barcelona native, he helped establish the cityโ€™s bohemian scene at Els Quatre Gats, inspiring younger artists like Picasso.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santiago_Rusi%C3%B1ol

Ramon Casas (1866โ€“1932) โ€“ Barcelona-born painter known for elegant portraits and posters capturing the cityโ€™s turn-of-the-century life. His work helped define the visual identity of Modernisme.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ramon_Casas

Pablo Picasso (1881โ€“1973) โ€“ Though born in Mรกlaga, Picasso grew up and trained in Barcelona, calling it his true home. His early years at the Els Quatre Gats cafรฉ shaped his career. The Museu Picasso now houses one of the worldโ€™s most comprehensive collections of his early works.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Museu_Picasso_(Barcelona)

Mid 20th Century (Surrealism and Abstract Art)

Joan Mirรณ (1893โ€“1983) โ€“ Born in Barcelona, Mirรณ developed a playful, dreamlike abstract style that influenced generations. His Fundaciรณ Joan Mirรณ museum and the public sculpture Dona i Ocell are must-sees for art lovers.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fundaci%C3%B3_Joan_Mir%C3%B3

Salvador Dalรญ (1904โ€“1989) โ€“ The Surrealist icon from Figueres, just north of Barcelona, often exhibited in the city and influenced its avant-garde scene. His eccentric works and persona remain a key part of Catalan art heritage.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salvador_Dal%C3%AD

Antoni Tร pies (1923โ€“2012) โ€“ A Barcelona-born abstract artist, Tร pies pioneered Spainโ€™s postwar avant-garde movement. His textured, material-based paintings redefined modern Spanish art. Visit the Fundaciรณ Antoni Tร pies to explore his work.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fundaci%C3%B3_Antoni_T%C3%A0pies

Contemporary Artists

Jaume Plensa (1955โ€“ ) โ€“ Internationally acclaimed sculptor from Barcelona known for his monumental public art installations. Works like Carmela (near the Palau de la Mรบsica) and the Crown Fountain in Chicago reflect his poetic minimalism.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jaume_Plensa


Writers & Poets

Catalan Renaixenรงa and Modernisme (19th โ€“ Early 20th Century)

Jacint Verdaguer (1845โ€“1902) โ€“ Poet-priest known as the father of modern Catalan literature. His epic Canigรณ and poem A Barcelona celebrated the Catalan spirit and the cityโ€™s transformation.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jacint_Verdaguer

Joan Maragall (1860โ€“1911) โ€“ Barcelona poet and essayist whose works bridged Romanticism and Modernisme. His home is now the Casa Museu Joan Maragall, preserving his literary legacy.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joan_Maragall

Civil War and Postwar Literature (1930sโ€“1960s)

George Orwell (1903โ€“1950) โ€“ The English author spent several months in Barcelona during the Spanish Civil War. His book Homage to Catalonia vividly recounts the revolutionary energy and chaos of the 1937 May Days. Orwellโ€™s experience in Barcelona shaped his later anti-totalitarian works.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Homage_to_Catalonia

Ernest Hemingway (1899โ€“1961) โ€“ While not a resident, Hemingway covered the Spanish Civil War from Catalonia, including brief stays in Barcelona between 1937โ€“1938 as a war correspondent. His dispatches described the cityโ€™s wartime atmosphere and the refugees fleeing along Cataloniaโ€™s roadsโ€”a lesser-known but vivid part of his Spanish chronicles.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ernest_Hemingway

Mercรจ Rodoreda (1908โ€“1983) โ€“ Barcelona-born novelist best known for La Plaรงa del Diamant (The Time of the Doves), a powerful story set in the Grร cia neighborhood during the Civil War and its aftermath.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merc%C3%A8_Rodoreda

Carmen Laforet (1921โ€“2004) โ€“ Born in Barcelona, Laforetโ€™s Nada captured postwar Barcelonaโ€™s gloom and earned her Spainโ€™s first Nadal Prize.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carmen_Laforet

Contemporary (Late 20th โ€“ 21st Century)

Manuel Vรกzquez Montalbรกn (1939โ€“2003) โ€“ Barcelona native and creator of the detective Pepe Carvalho, whose novels double as culinary and social tours of the city.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manuel_V%C3%A1zquez_Montalb%C3%A1n

Gabriel Garcรญa Mรกrquez (1927โ€“2014) โ€“ The Colombian Nobel laureate lived in Barcelona (1967โ€“1975) during the Latin American literary Boom, writing The Autumn of the Patriarch and befriending major authors.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gabriel_Garc%C3%ADa_M%C3%A1rquez

Carlos Ruiz Zafรณn (1964โ€“2020) โ€“ Barcelona-born author of The Shadow of the Wind, which immortalized the cityโ€™s Gothic Quarter in global literature.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carlos_Ruiz_Zaf%C3%B3n

Ildefonso Falcones (1959โ€“ ) โ€“ Author of Cathedral of the Sea, set around the building of Santa Maria del Mar in 14th-century Barcelona. His historical novels capture the cityโ€™s medieval past in vivid detail.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ildefonso_Falcones


Looking Further Back

While Barcelonaโ€™s best-known artists came from the Modernisme and modern art movements, the cityโ€™s creative story began long before Gaudรญ and Mirรณ. Centuries earlier, Greek settlers at Empรบries (around 575 BC) brought Mediterranean notions of balance, form, and ornamentation to Cataloniaโ€™s shoresโ€”ideas that would ripple through Roman mosaics, Gothic altarpieces, and eventually the sinuous lines of Modernisme itself. From ancient craftsmen to medieval painters, Barcelonaโ€™s artistic DNA runs deep. For travelers who love art history, this is where the story begins: from the ruins of Barcino to the frescoed chapels of the Gothic era.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emp%C3%BAries


Roman & Early Christian Foundations

Barcelona began as the Roman colony Barcino (1st century BC), parts of which still stand within the Gothic Quarter. Visitors can explore remnants of ancient walls and streets beneath the Museu dโ€™Histรฒria de Barcelona (MUHBA), which preserves mosaics, wine presses, and bathhouses from the Roman city.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roman_walls_of_Barcelona

Romanesque & Early Medieval (11thโ€“13th Centuries)

The Catalan Pyrenees produced some of Europeโ€™s most remarkable Romanesque mural art, much of which is now housed in Barcelonaโ€™s Museu Nacional dโ€™Art de Catalunya (MNAC).

Master of Taรผll (c. 12th century) โ€“ An anonymous painter known for the frescoes of Sant Climent de Taรผll, featuring the iconic โ€œChrist in Majesty,โ€ now displayed in MNACโ€™s Romanesque galleries.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Master_of_Ta%C3%BCll

The MNACโ€™s Romanesque collection showcases the artistry of early Catalan painters and craftsmen.
https://www.museunacional.cat/en/collections/medieval-romanesque-art

Gothic & Late Medieval (14thโ€“15th Centuries)

By the Gothic period, Barcelona had become a thriving Mediterranean hub, commissioning grand altarpieces and illuminated manuscripts.

Ferrer Bassa (active c. 1320โ€“1348) โ€“ Court painter who introduced Italian influence to Catalan Gothic art.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrer_Bassa

Arnau Bassa (14th century) โ€“ Son of Ferrer, known for refined devotional panels blending Gothic grace with naturalism.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arnau_Bassa

Lluรญs Borrassร  (c. 1360โ€“c. 1426) โ€“ Barcelona workshop master who popularized the International Gothic style through large-scale altarpieces.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Llu%C3%ADs_Borrass%C3%A0

Bernat Martorell (d. 1452) โ€“ A leading late-Gothic painter whose works, like the Saint George Altarpiece, exemplify Cataloniaโ€™s medieval splendor.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bernat_Martorell

Where to See It

Museu Nacional dโ€™Art de Catalunya (MNAC) โ€“ Houses the worldโ€™s largest collection of Catalan Romanesque and Gothic paintings.
https://www.museunacional.cat/en

MUHBA (Museu dโ€™Histรฒria de Barcelona) โ€“ Offers an underground journey through Roman Barcino.
https://museuhistoria.bcn.cat/en


A Tip for Visitors

From Gaudรญโ€™s fantastical facades to Mirรณโ€™s surreal sculptures and Zafรณnโ€™s literary shadows, Barcelona itself is a living gallery. Wander its streets, visit the artistsโ€™ foundations, and youโ€™ll find that every corner holds a piece of art history waiting to be rediscovered.

So, during the month of August, just assume Spain is closed.

You want to go to your favorite coffee shop? “See you in September!”

Need a new outfit? “We return September 1st.”

The fish market? “We are on vacation.”

The pharmacy?!?! “Notice, vacation.”

Fruit stand? Handwritten, “We return September, happy vacation!”

And sometimes, a shop’s door is just closed for about a month without a sign. Or the sign is faded. Or illegible.

These “signs” honestly make for a pretty entertaining walk around the city as there are easily hundreds of them. But that also means that almost anywhere you want to go will be closed for the foreseeable future.

*Note that these hours are never accurately advertised on their google listing

A fourth of July party at Can Petsoltโ€”grill fired up & friends packed in for a little Americana.

Family visits, vermut in hand, and Barรงa winning basically everything except the ones stolen by refs. Copa del Rey, Supercopa, La Ligaโ€”what a fun season to be a fan! 400,000 fans showed up for the parade, which felt about right.

The Vuelta a Espaรฑa Femenina came through town, so we stood curbside with drinks and enthusiasm. Cam and friends did their own biking, but downhill and in dirt. Took a trip up to Costa Brava with my sister for some sun and both Greek and Roman ruins. Strong spring!

A Calendar for the Curious (and Mildly Overstimulated)

Now live: Barcelona Events Calendar

One of the great things about living in Barcelona is that thereโ€™s always something happening. One of the confusing things about living in Barcelona is that thereโ€™s always something happening. You step out to grab bread and walk into a parade. You try to meet a friend and get blocked by a troop of devils with firecrackers. Itโ€™s charming. Itโ€™s chaotic. Itโ€™s frequently loud.

So we made a page for it.

The new Barcelona Events Calendar is our attempt to make sense of the cityโ€™s non-stop cultural agendaโ€”from the big-ticket items like Festes de Grร cia and Primavera Sound, to smaller, weirder gems like the Sant Medir candy-throwing cavalcade or the inexplicably hypnotic human tower rehearsals.

Itโ€™s not exhaustive (neither are we), but weโ€™ll be adding to it regularly. And know that we didnโ€™t just copy this all from Wikipedia while nursing a cortado. No, we worked hard on it and got most of it from ChatGPT while nursing a vermut! Think of it as a rolling archive of what makes Barcelona tick: the saints, the drummers, the neighborhood rivalries, the castellers who you watch no matter how many times you come across them.

We made this for anyone whoโ€™s ever asked, โ€œWait, why are there fireworks again?โ€โ€”and also for our future selves, who will inevitably forget.

Check it out, and if you know an event weโ€™ve missed (especially one involving human towers or some sort of tasting something), let us know. Weโ€™re easily tempted.

Festa Major de Grร cia: Day 1 of our move to Barcelona — August 2020
Jean Bouin 10K: Barcelona’s Oldest Race with a family visitor — December 2024

For Christmas, Kate gave me a spiral-bound book and a yearlong reservation. Not to one place, but fifty-two. The gift was a planโ€”her plan for usโ€”to explore a new corner of Barcelona every week via lunch or dinner from our โ€œWant to Goโ€ list– places we haven’t been before.

Each week, Kate picks the spot, often with reservations made far in advance, and logs the details in our โ€œ52 Citasโ€ notebook. I show up and enjoy. Sometimes thereโ€™s a coffee stop beforehand, sometimes a cocktail afterward, and often both.

The notebook lives on our bar shelf and fills steadilyโ€”one page per week, one neighborhood at a time. She notes the dates, the dishes, and maybe an anecdote or two — the waiter who switched from Spanish to Dutch mid-sentence, margaritas that were just a little too good for a Tuesday, an Orient Express-themed speak-easy, a photo peep-show behind a curtain, and meeting new people and places. There are some crossed-out plans, a few bonus outings, and at least one entry that ends with โ€œbought antiquities.โ€ That one did have to do with margaritas.

It has been magical: exploring both favorite and new parts of the city, in bite-sized pieces. What started as a gift has become a rhythm. A choose-your-own-adventure (often with wine and tapas).

Kateโ€™s the mastermind. Iโ€™m the sidekick. Together, weโ€™re slowly eating our way through Barcelonaโ€”one amazing cita at a time.

Missed Citas?

Have there been any missed citas? Honestly, not really. I did a small post about it here.

Cita 50: Coming Soon

I have a couple more to share…

Cita 48: Per Fina

Per Feina

Weโ€™d heard this was a rising neighborhood favoriteโ€”bright, bustling, and full of energy. And when we walked in, it certainly felt that way. Servers were friendly, and the place was packed, with what seemed like a local work lunch crowd filling the tables.

The vibe was right, but the food didnโ€™t quite match. We did a split approachโ€”one menu del dรญa and one ร  la carte. The salmorejo stood out, but the rest felt underseasoned and a little flat. Maybe it was the mood of the day, or maybe it just didnโ€™t hit. With so many places still to try, we wonโ€™t be racing back, but we wouldnโ€™t count it out either.

website | instagram

Cita 46: Flipa

Flipa

There are a lot of corners in Sant Antoni that just get it rightโ€”and this little sandwich-and-vermut stop is one of them. Flipa is bright, tight, and cheery inside, with just a handful of seats and a tile-and-plywood vibe that felt very much like a hangout for people from the ‘hood. We split a couple of Italian-style focaccia sandwichesโ€”stacked with meats and cheeseโ€”though โ€œsplitโ€ is a generous term. We ordered two, knowing weโ€™d take home leftoversโ€ฆ

The best surprise? The vermut. Served in tiny corked bottles on individual trays with ice, olives, and orangeโ€”easily the best vermut presentation weโ€™ve seen. Charming, casual, and very Barcelona.

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Cita 42: Nรบmero Nueve -> Gilante

Nรบmero Nueve +

This one kicked off at Nรบmero Nueve in El Bornโ€”a cocktail bar that doesnโ€™t take itself too seriously. The place was buzzing, the playlist was vibey, and the drinks? Well, letโ€™s just say the โ€œOnlyFans Martiniโ€ was as cheeky as it sounds. We grabbed a couple of their house specials and soaked up the atmosphere, complete with neon lights, vintage Polaroids, and a menu that doubled as entertainment.

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Galante

Then we wandered into Galante, just a few blocks away, where everything felt familiarโ€ฆ and not. Turns out, we had been there beforeโ€”just under a different name. The new look leaned retro-Spanish deli, with hams hanging in the window and shelves stacked with conservas. We split a few rich bites, including a decadent grilled cheese-ish topped with chistorra. Different scene, same corner of the city. Barcelona likes to remix itselfโ€”and weโ€™re not mad about it.

g

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Cita 41: Vertical

Vertical

A close walk from us in Left Eixample, Vertical is a brand new spot that in the two weeks we’d seen it getting built out, we couldn’t belive we had done without. Big wine coolers do that. Sleek, moody, and stocked to the ceiling with great bottles, itโ€™s a wine bar that wears its cool lightly. We opted for a bottle of Burgundy and quickly realized the sommelier used to work at Berbena (a long-time favorite!)โ€”always fun to recognize a familiar face. There are a few small tapas on offer, but really, this is a place to sit, sip, and let the wine do the talking. We will be back for the Lou!

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Cita 39: Ricรณn Catalรก -> El Roca

Ricรณn Catalรก

We popped into this cozy little spot just before El Rocaโ€”with glowing barrels and the promise of vermut on tap. Inside, it was all string lights, handwritten chalkboards, and a warm local vibe. The vermut was cheap and cheerful, the kind of pour that pairs perfectly with people-watching. Not fancy, not trying to beโ€”just a solid neighborhood vermuterรญa.


El Roca

Some places catch your eye from the outsideโ€”and El Roca is for sure one of them. The inside was funky and cool (audiophile design, record-lined walls), but it was a bit empty, and the terrace was calling on a beautiful night. We worked our way through vermut, a couple of claras, and a surprisingly good plate of pasta. The huevos estrellados with chistorra were a hit, and the mushroom-truffle croquetas didnโ€™t last long. Bonus: we ran into a friendly face from our gymโ€”turns out she owns Hello Olive, a lovely little shop weโ€™d visited on an earlier cita.

Cita 38: Galactic Bear Brewing -> Rarel Restobar -> Krakoviak

Galactic Bear Brewing

To get stargd, we swung by Galactic Bear Brewing for a quick pint. Itโ€™s a quirky little spot with a welcoming staff and fun branding (โ€œGood Beers for Good Bearsโ€). While the place had charm, the beer itself didnโ€™t blow us away. Still, always glad to support something localโ€”and the space is cute enough to merit a visit if youโ€™re nearby.

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Wawel Restobar

We were feeling a little nostalgic from our recent trip to Poland, so Kate made a reservation at Wawel Restobar, tucked near Sagrada Familia. The place was vibrant and packed, with one heroic server taking care of every table. The vibe was casual but warm, and the menu leaned fully into Polish comfort food. No beautiful food photos here! But tasty:-)

We started with the pierogis (plenty of dillโ€”highly recommended), then followed up with goulash and ลปywiec Biaล‚e, a wheat beer from the very town Davidโ€™s family hails from. They own a little Tienda down the street that we visited and now have a good Polish market to visit again!

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Cita 37: Pรฉcora -> La Campechana -> Sensorial

Pรฉcora

A new stop for us in Poble Nou, Pรฉcora had good coffee and a super mellow vibe โ€” made instantly more entertaining by the Adidas crew filming a UK/Ireland print ad campaign. Staff were moving guests who werenโ€™t wearing Adidas out of frame, which only added to the fun. Chill spot. Great people-watching and it became a stop on our Dia de los Cortados.

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La Campechana

Lunch followed at La Campechana, where we each had a michelada and settled in for Mexican comfort food. Kate had chilaquiles. David had tacos (probably). The food was solid, though Spanish practice was a bust โ€” every attempt was answered in English. Doh.

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Sensorial Cafรฉ

Maybe it was the micheladas, but another flat white was in order after lunch! For that, we wandered to Sensorial, another of the countless coffee shops in Poblenou.

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Cita 36: Casa Fiero

Kate marked a couple of cocktail bars โ€”places that had lingered on the list for far too long. But when we finally showed up? One had transformed into a flower shop, and the other (aptly named Indecente) was completely shuttered. So we wandered toward our ultimate destination, Casa Fiero.

Casa Fiero

Tucked into a corner of Carrer Londres, Casa Fiero is the kind of place that makes you feel like youโ€™re in on a secret. Itโ€™s run by the same team behind Maleducat in Sant Antoniโ€”so we were pretty sure it would be good. We slid into a table and stayed for a few rounds, starting with a killer glass of vermut. The vibe? Old-school Barcelona, updated with a smart mid-century touch. A little glam, a little playful, definitely cool.

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Cita 32: Bloody Mary Cocktail Bar -> Salero
(& Festa Major de Grร cia)

Bloody Mary Cocktail Bar

A quirky little spot in Grร cia with Warhol-inspired art, rows of Bloody Mary mix bottles, and bitters and hot sauces to taste.

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Salero

We had a table right next to the window with a view of the buzzing bee street – I’m guessing this night it was the best table in Barcelona. The food was bold and flavorful โ€” fried appetizers, saucy mains, and crisp cava to keep things cool.

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Festa Major de Grร cia

After drinks, and again after dinner, we wandered straight into Festa Major de Grร cia, where the streets transformed into a creative fever dream. We turned a corner and found ourselves in a full Star Wars diorama (hello, R2 and C-3PO), and then were swallowed by a giant glowing bee colony โ€” a street decked out in honeycomb lanterns and buzzing energy. The neighborhood truly shows off this time of year. Dinner ended just after midnight, but the dancing and drums were still going strong!

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Festa Major de Grร cia at 00:30 on a weekday

Cita 31: Almayer Coctail Bar -> Magatzem de ses Illes

Almayer Cocktail Bar

We started the night here, drawn in by the soft lighting, playful wall art, and a bartender who actually seemed to enjoy making drinks. Low-key and lovely, with just enough kitsch to make it memorable and just enough balance to make it tasty.

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Magatzem de ses Illes

A cozy, quietly confident spot in Grร cia serving Mallorcan cuisine with heart and no unnecessary extras. Think stuffed piquillo peppers, grilled meats, and olive oil that tastes like someoneโ€™s abuela still bottles it by hand. The space feels like a charming mix of grandmaโ€™s kitchen and a classical music salonโ€”yes, thereโ€™s a cello on the wall.

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Cita 29: Karma -> Botero Muesum -> Catalan History Museum

Karma Coffee


A serene little cafรฉ tucked into the Gothic Quarter, Karma serves carefully sourced beans with great espresso and quiet charm.

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The Botero Detour

On to the Botero exhibit at Palau Martorell. Welp, it turns out, it had endedโ€ฆ the day before. (Not mentioned online, of course.) So we pivoted, as one does, and landed at the Catalan History Museum instead.

Catalan History Museum

Free admission thanks to a broken AC, which was generousโ€ฆ and sweaty. Learned a lot. Laughed more. Not the Cita we planned, but exactly the kind we remember.

website

Cita 28: Swagatam

Swagatam

A cheerful neighborhood Indian spot in Grร cia with friendly service, bright walls, and comforting plates of samosas, paneer, korma, and naan. Nothing fancyโ€”just warm hospitality and rich spices. One of us loved it. One of us smiled politely. They canโ€™t all be winners.

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Cita 27: NOA Chefโ€™s Hall -> Whisper Sister

NOA Chefโ€™s Hall

A destination in every sense, NOA sits on the Estonian coast with sweeping sea views and a Michelin pedigree that doesnโ€™t feel like itโ€™s trying too hard. The setting is slick Scandinavian minimalism; the food is maximalist in all the best waysโ€”delicate tacos with edible flowers, caviar-topped halibut, and a wine pairing that kept the glasses full and the smiles steady.

Website | Instagram


Whisper Sister

Tucked behind an unmarked door in Tallinnโ€™s Old Town, this speakeasy nails the Prohibition-era mood without the fuss. Apparently, speakeasies are new to Estonia, and all the neighbors are very confused by the lack of signage. LOL! Leather menus, low lighting, and a bartender who was on-point with her Estonian-Irish accentโ€”plus cocktails that can hold their own in any city. A strong finish to a great Cita and a perfect start to our time in a cooler Baltic climate.

Website | Instagram

Missing Citas


We did miss a few citas… kinda. Between visits from Kateโ€™s dad, my sister Vicki, and a steady stream of friends, a few citas were happily hijacked. We didnโ€™t always make it somewhere new, but we made it somewhere greatโ€”revisiting favorites like Berbena, Martรญnez, Come, and cookouts, all with a few extra chairs at the table.

Cita 26: Vivood Landscape Hotel -> Torre del Marquรฉs

Vivood Landscape Hotel

Tucked into the hills near Alicante, Vivood offered a sleek private villa with a pool, a soundtrack of chirping crickets, and enough stillness to remember past travelsโ€”and start planning the next. Kate said the official “Cita” from this birthday getaway was at the next spot, but the floating breakfast in our private pool has to have an honorable mention.

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Torre del Marquรฉs

A 5-star retreat in the hills of Matarraรฑa, where stone walls, vineyard views, and stillness come standard. The highlight was our Picnic in the Field Tortilla, cava, a simple ham and cheese plate, and fruit salad under open skiesโ€”proof that the best meals sometimes come without menus. Bonus points for cards, good music, and zero restaurant noise.

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Cita 24: Bar Donzell -> Ugoโ€™s Cafรฉ

Bar Donzell

With just a handful of tables and zero interest in overpromising, Bar Donzell serves up lamb shank, pluma, and baked eggplant with cheese in generous, no-nonsense portions. Reservations essential. Hunger manditory.

Instagram | Website


Ugoโ€™s Cafรฉ

A bright new find in Poble Nou with cold brew on tap, iced lattes that hit just right, and the kind of neighborhood vibe that makes you want to visit Poble Nou again soon.

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Cita 23: Cafeterรญa Moitama -> Onso Bakery

Cafeterรญa Moitama

A laid-back cafรฉ in Sant Antoni where the barista speaks more languages than you have fingers, and the flat white lands smooth. Quietly excellent and effortlessly kind.


Onso Bakery

Right nearby, Onso serves flaky, buttery pastries in a stylish, chilled-out space that fills up fast for good reason. Cold drinks on hand and plenty of room to linger.

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Cita 22: Casa Petra

Casa Petra

Tucked into a lively corner of Sant Gervasi, Casa Petra does traditional Catalan with enough modern energy to keep things interesting. We grabbed a table out front. Easygoing, unpretentious, and deeply local. The owner, originally from Buenos Aires, keeps the vibe warm, but the wine kept things cool.

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Cita 19: Pappa & Citti

Pappa & Citti

A nice walk on a cool spring evening to this Sardinian-style spot — kinda in San Gervasi, kinda in Gracia. The burrata tray arrived like it knew it was the main event.
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Cita 18: Casa Anita En Parรญs -> Solange Cocktail Bar

Casa Anita En Parรญs

The weather kept us local, and this Eixample bistro proved more than sufficient. Mediterranean style with good instinctsโ€”burrata, garlic-parsley scallops, meatballs, and a beef sandwich that didnโ€™t need to try too hard. The Priorat helped, as it always does.
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Solange Cocktail Bar

To mark Cinco de Mayo and a certain first date from 1990, we headed to Solangeโ€”a dimly lit nod to James Bond and strong drinks. Margaritas were ordered for thematic accuracy.
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Cita 17: Vinus & Brindis

Vinus & Brindis

A tiny, well-curated wine shop in Sant Gervasi with just enough bar stools to feel like youโ€™re in on a secret. Neus poured with care, introduced us to CORPINNAT (a very persuasive sparkling wine like Cava), and sent us off with a bottle (or two), and the quiet urge to make this spot a regular habit.
Website | Instagram

Cita 16: Takearte -> Origin. -> Primate

Takearte

A low-key taco joint in Sant Antoni serving casual, Mexico City-style street foodโ€”no frills, just good fish tacos doing their job. Ideal for when youโ€™re short on time but not on appetite.
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Update: Closed a week later. We thought the cockroach in the bathroom was just part of it being “authentic”, but maybe not.


Primate Bakehouse

Tucked into Sant Antoni like so many other great places, Primate delivers flaky medialunas, excellent baguettes, and a peanut butter situation that reminds me of what we used to get in the States.
Website | Instagram


Origin. Specialty Coffee

A serene and pretty cafรฉ in Sant Antoni, Origin. Specialty Coffee was… fine. It won’t make our coffee guide, but it was still a great table in the sun, a nice way to spend some time together.
Website

Cita 15: Mesa Lobo -> Orient Express

Mesa Lobo

A French-meets-Nordic bistro in Eixample that is just the right kind of elevated. We had an early dinner (8:00) so we could meet Q coming in from London.
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Orient Express Cocktail Bar

We still had some time to kill. This place had a full theatrical commitment to the train theme, right down to drink carts, conductors’ hats, and a view of the Croatian countryside. One part cocktail, one part Wes Anderson daydream.
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Cita 14: Entrepreneur -> Bricks

Entrepreneur

Modern food for modern minds. This Poblenou spot feels like it was designed by someone who owns three startups. But no sign out front, so maybe a marketing class would be a good idea.
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Bricks

Cozy cafรฉ and another sign-challenged location. The girls next to us were targeted by pigeons, but they say thatโ€™s good luck.
Instagram

Cita 12: El Pa Torrra

El Pa Torrat

A Galvany mainstay since near Turo Park. Itโ€™s classic Catalanโ€”bacalao, croquetas, and enough wood-paneled gravitas to make you sit up straight. I think the guy in the table next to us has been there since 1981.
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Cita 11: Bitter -> Dolores

Bitter Cocktail Bar

A Sant Antoni hideout with herby cocktails and enough charm to warrant its own design blog post. So Iโ€™ve heard.
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Seรฑora Dolores

Natural wines againโ€“so we went for Vermut! Fried delights, vintage dรฉcor, and we finally found out why people kept looking behind the curtains.
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Cita 10: Metl -> Ombรบ -> DShop -> Ancestral

Metl

Short menu, big heart. Mexican comfort food in Poblenou, cooked like somebodyโ€™s abuela lives upstairs.
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Ombรบ

Specialty coffee in a snug corner of the city. If you donโ€™t like this spot, there are at least four more coffee places on this block alone!
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DShop

Located inside the Disseny Hub, this design store sells the kind of gifts you take photos of. Found Cam cool futbolin hooks and the patio a cool water picture.
Website


Ancestral

Craft brew & vermouth. I guess they have tapas too, but we come for the drinks. This one isnโ€™t new, but was a perfect spot to linger before ending the cita.
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Cita 9: Glug

Glug

Mostly natural wines, a super-dope tiled bar, and a Catalan-Italian flavor profile that says โ€œweโ€™re not choosing sides.โ€ Bonus points for being fun to say. And God Damn, maybe the best French onion soup Iโ€™ve had.
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Cita 8: Elocuente Cafรฉ & Libros -> Cafe Del Centre -> Forn Sarret

Elocuente Cafรฉ & Libros

Books, brews, and just the right level of hush.
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Cafรฉ del Centre

A 150-year-old institution still wearing its original woodwork. Order a vermut and pretend youโ€™re in a black-and-white film.
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Forn Sarret

Architectural pastry. Historic faรงade, flaky interior. The kind of bakery where you end up buying bread or a pastry just to carry it around.
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Cita 7: La Pachuca -> Coto

La Pachuca

Almost all the way to the Mediterranean in Gotic, La Pachuca has margaritas, tacos, and enough neon energy to qualify as cardio. Loud in all the right ways.
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Coto

Coffee shop meets concept store. The espressoโ€™s tight, the merch is local, and the vibe whispers, โ€œhey, you should buy that t-shirt with the little piggy on it.โ€ I did. Related to a favorite place in El Born… look for the streamers.
Website | Instagram

Cita 6: Cosa -> Oido

Cosa

Italian-roast coffee and artisanal pastries served in a space for caffeinated bliss.
Instagram


Oรญdo

A 1980s, nostelgic Catalan vibe — complete with communal tables and culinary nostalgia. And a kinda cranky owner who didn’t seem to care for the non-locals โ€“ the kind you find sometimes in Grร cia.
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Cita 5: Malparit

Malparit

Catalan cuisine with a bit of a spin. Sitting at the bar by the kitchen is a perfect place to watch the chefs who are dialed in on their dishes. Some really fun things to try and lots of good wine options.
Website | Instagram

Cita 4: Malhumor -> Osom Nou

Malhumor

Donโ€™t be fooled by the nameโ€”this place serves brunch with a smile (and a Dutch accent). Simple, and HUGE portions.
Website | Instagram


Osom Nou

One of Poblenouโ€™s hip, Instagram-friendly coffee spots. It will be part of our โ€œDรญa de los Cortados.โ€ Details to comeโ€ฆ
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Cita 3: Bar El Pipino -> La Gratitud

Bar El Pepino

Natural wine is not our favorite thing. But the owner found us a good one! A relaxed energy and the perfect level of tight and crowded. A good new find in Grร cia.
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La Gratitud

On Carrer del Torrent de lโ€™Olla, and as vibrant as its name suggests. We were not planning to hit this spot, but it called out to us, with one of our favorite Mercรจ posters over the bar.
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Cita 2

Cita 1: Vermuteria Lou -> Casa Inรฉs -> Navy Coffee Bar -> Origo

Vermuteria Lou

A moody little spot in Grร cia with vintage signage and low lighting. It isnโ€™t trying to look old, it is old. We toasted my Dad (Lou) with a nice vermouth.
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Casa Inรฉs

Sleek, understated, and as we have learned sinceโ€”quietly confident in its absinthe game. Next time!
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Navy Coffee Bar

Scandinavian in design and dispositionโ€”stoic espresso, minimalist seating, small and friendly.
Website | Instagram


Origo

Rust-colored, bread-forward, and teetering nicely between design showroom and a breakfast nook.
Website | Instagram

Winter in Barcelona with Paquito Homieโ€”walks around the city, some light FCB brainwashing, and encouragement of his street art tendencies. Quick trip to the U.S. to give my dad some love. A Superbowl weekend in Costa Brava with the boys. Also, puzzles, cocktail bars, and visits from friends-soon-to-be-neighbors.