For Christmas 2024, Kate gave me a spiral-bound book and a yearlong reservation. Not to one place, but fifty-two to be visited throughout 2025. The gift was a planโher plan for usโto explore a new corner of Barcelona every week via lunch or dinner from our โWant to Goโ list– places we haven’t been before.
Each week, Kate picks the spot, often with reservations made far in advance, and logs the details in our โ52 Citasโ notebook. I show up and enjoy. Sometimes thereโs a coffee stop beforehand, sometimes a cocktail afterward, and often both.
The notebook lives on our bar shelf and fills steadilyโone page per week, one neighborhood at a time. She notes the dates, the dishes, and maybe an anecdote or two — the waiter who switched from Spanish to Dutch mid-sentence, margaritas that were just a little too good for a Tuesday, an Orient Express-themed speakeasy, a photo peep-show behind a curtain, and meeting new people and places. There are some crossed-out plans, a few bonus outings, and at least one entry that ends with โbought antiquities.โ That one did have to do with margaritas.
It has been magical: exploring both favorite and new parts of the city, in bite-sized pieces. What started as a gift has become a rhythm. A choose-your-own-adventure (often with wine and tapas).
Kateโs the mastermind. Iโm the sidekick. Together, weโre slowly eating our way through Barcelonaโone amazing cita at a time.
Missed Citas?
Have there been any missed citas? Honestly, not really. I did a small post about it here.
Cita 50: Coming Soon
I have a couple more to share…
Cita 48: Per Feina
Per Feina
Weโd heard this was a rising neighborhood favoriteโbright, bustling, and full of energy. And when we walked in, it certainly felt that way. Servers were friendly, and the place was packed, with what seemed like a local work lunch crowd filling the tables.
The vibe was right, but the food didnโt quite match. We went two waysโone menu del dรญa, one ร la carte. The salmorejo stood out, but the rest felt underseasoned and a little flat. Maybe it was the mood of the day, or maybe it just didnโt hit. With so many places still to try, we wonโt be racing back, but we wouldnโt count it out either.
Cita 46: Flipa
Flipa
There are a lot of corners in Sant Antoni that just get it rightโand this little sandwich-and-vermut stop is one of them. Flipa is bright, tight, and cheery inside, with just a handful of seats and a tile-and-plywood vibe that felt very much like a hangout for people from the ‘hood. We split a couple of Italian-style focaccia sandwichesโstacked with meats and cheeseโthough โsplitโ is a generous term. We ordered two, knowing weโd take home leftoversโฆ
The best surprise? The vermut. Served in tiny corked bottles on individual trays with ice, olives, and orangeโeasily the best vermut presentation weโve seen.
Cita 42: Nรบmero Nueve -> Galante
Nรบmero Nueve +
This one kicked off at Nรบmero Nueve in El Bornโa cocktail bar that doesnโt take itself too seriously. The place was buzzing, the playlist was vibey, and the drinks? Well, letโs just say the โOnlyFans Martiniโ was as cheeky as it sounds. We stayed for two rounds, easily, with the neon, the Polaroids, and a menu entertaining enough to read twice.
Galante
Then we wandered into Galante, just a few blocks away, where everything felt familiarโฆ and not. Turns out, we had been there beforeโjust under a different name. The new look leaned retro-Spanish deli, with hams hanging in the window and shelves stacked with conservas. We split a few rich bites, including a decadent grilled cheese-ish topped with chistorra. Different scene, same corner of the city. Barcelona canโt help tinkering with itself. Fine by us.
Cita 41: Vertical
Vertical
A close walk from us in Left Eixample, Vertical is a brand new spot โ two weeks after weโd watched it get built out, we already couldnโt imagine doing without it. Big wine coolers do that. Sleek, moody, and stocked to the ceiling with great bottles, itโs a wine bar that wears its cool lightly. We opted for a bottle of Burgundy and quickly realized the sommelier used to work at Berbena (a long-time favorite!)โalways fun to recognize a familiar face. There are a few small tapas on offer, but really, this is a place to sit, sip, and stay longer than you planned. We will be back for the Lou!
Cita 39: Ricรณn Catalรก -> El Roca
Rincรณn Catalรก
We popped into this cozy little spot just before El Rocaโwith glowing barrels and the promise of vermut on tap. Inside, it was all string lights, handwritten chalkboards, and a warm local vibe. The vermut was cheap and good, and the people-watching was free. Not fancy, not trying to beโjust a solid neighborhood vermuterรญa.
El Roca
Some places catch your eye from the outsideโand El Roca is definitely one of them. The inside was funky and cool (audiophile design, record-lined walls), but it was a bit empty, and the terrace was calling on a beautiful night. We worked our way through vermut, a couple of claras, and a surprisingly good plate of pasta. The huevos estrellados with chistorra were a hit, and the mushroom-truffle croquetas didnโt last long. Bonus: we ran into a friendly face from our gymโturns out she owns Hello Olive, a lovely little shop weโd visited on an earlier cita.
Cita 38: Galactic Bear Brewing -> Wawel Restobar -> Krakoviak
Galactic Bear Brewing
To get started, we swung by Galactic Bear Brewing for a quick pint. Itโs a quirky little spot with a welcoming staff and fun branding (โGood Beers for Good Bearsโ). While the place had charm, the beer itself didnโt blow us away. Still, always glad to support something localโand the space is cute enough to merit a visit if youโre nearby.
Wawel Restobar
We were feeling a little nostalgic from our recent trip to Poland, so Kate made a reservation at Wawel Restobar, tucked near Sagrada Familia. The place was vibrant and packed, with one heroic server taking care of every table. The vibe was casual but warm, and the menu leaned fully into Polish comfort food. No beautiful food photos here โ but it was exactly what we wanted.
We started with the pierogis (plenty of dillโhighly recommended), then followed up with goulash and ลปywiec Biaลe, a wheat beer from the very town my family hails from. The restaurant owns a little tienda down the street that we visited โ we now have a good, local Polish market to visit again.
Cita 37: Pรฉcora -> La Campechana -> Sensorial
Pรฉcora
A new stop for us in Poble Nou, Pรฉcora had good coffee and a super mellow vibe โ made instantly more entertaining by the Adidas crew filming a UK/Ireland print ad campaign. Staff were moving guests who werenโt wearing Adidas out of frame, which only added to the fun. Chill spot. Great people-watching and it became a stop on our Dia de los Cortados.
La Campechana
Lunch followed at La Campechana, where we each had a michelada and settled in for Mexican comfort food. Kate had chilaquiles. I had tacos (probably). The food was solid, though Spanish practice was a bust โ every attempt was answered in English. Doh.
Sensorial Cafรฉ
Maybe it was the micheladas, but another flat white was in order after lunch! For that, we wandered to Sensorial, another of the countless coffee shops in Poblenou.
Cita 36: Casa Fiero
Kate marked a couple of cocktail bars โplaces that had lingered on the list for far too long. But when we finally showed up? One had transformed into a flower shop, and the other (aptly named Indecente) was completely shuttered. So we wandered toward our ultimate destination, Casa Fiero.
Casa Fiero
Tucked into a corner of Carrer Londres, Casa Fiero is the kind of corner spot youโre genuinely glad you found. Itโs run by the same team behind Maleducat in Sant Antoniโso we were pretty sure it would be good. We slid into a table and stayed for a few rounds, starting with a killer glass of vermut. The vibe? Old-school Barcelona, updated with a smart mid-century touch. A little glam, a little playful, definitely cool.
Cita 32: Bloody Mary Cocktail Bar -> Salero
(& Festa Major de Grร cia)
Bloody Mary Cocktail Bar
A quirky little spot in Grร cia with Warhol-inspired art, rows of Bloody Mary mix bottles, and bitters and hot sauces to taste.
Salero
We had a table right next to the window with a view of the buzzing bee street – I’m guessing this night it was the best table in Barcelona. The food was bold and flavorful โ fried appetizers and saucy mains, with cava doing most of the heavy lifting.
Festa Major de Grร cia
After drinks, and again after dinner, we wandered straight into Festa Major de Grร cia, where the streets transformed into a creative fever dream. We turned a corner and found ourselves in a full Star Wars diorama (hello, R2 and C-3PO), and then were swallowed by a giant glowing bee colony โ a street decked out in honeycomb lanterns and buzzing energy. The neighborhood truly shows off this time of year. Dinner ended just after midnight, but the dancing and drums were still going strong!
Cita 31: Almayer Coctail Bar -> Magatzem de ses Illes
Almayer Cocktail Bar
We started the night here, drawn in by the soft lighting, playful wall art, and a bartender who actually seemed to enjoy making drinks. Low-key and lovely, with A little kitschy, but balanced โ the drinks were the point.
Magatzem de ses Illes
A cozy, quietly confident spot in Grร cia serving Mallorcan cuisine with heart and no unnecessary extras. Think stuffed piquillo peppers, grilled meats, and olive oil that tastes like someoneโs abuela still bottles it by hand. The space feels like a charming mix of grandmaโs kitchen and a classical music salonโyes, thereโs a cello on the wall.
Cita 29: Karma -> Botero Muesum -> Catalan History Museum
Karma Coffee
A serene little cafรฉ tucked into the Gothic Quarter, Karma serves carefully sourced beans with great espresso and quiet charm.
The Botero Detour
On to the Botero exhibit at Palau Martorell. Welp, it turns out, it had endedโฆ the day before. (Not mentioned online, of course.) So we pivoted, as one does, and landed at the Catalan History Museum instead.
Catalan History Museum
Free admission thanks to a broken AC, which was generousโฆ and sweaty. Learned a lot. Laughed more. Not the Cita we planned, but exactly the kind we remember.
Cita 28: Swagatam
Swagatam
A cheerful neighborhood Indian spot in Grร cia with friendly service, bright walls, and comforting plates of samosas, paneer, korma, and naan. Nothing fancyโjust warm hospitality and rich spices. One of us loved it. One of us smiled politely. They canโt all be winners.
Cita 27: NOA Chefโs Hall -> Whisper Sister
NOA Chefโs Hall
A destination in every sense, NOA sits on the Estonian coast with sweeping sea views and a Michelin pedigree that doesnโt feel like itโs trying too hard. The setting is slick Scandinavian minimalism; the food is maximalist in all the best waysโdelicate tacos with edible flowers, caviar-topped halibut, and a wine pairing that kept the glasses full and the smiles steady.
Whisper Sister
Tucked behind an unmarked door in Tallinnโs Old Town, this speakeasy nails the Prohibition-era mood without the fuss. Apparently, speakeasies are new to Estonia, and all the neighbors are very confused by the lack of signage. LOL! Leather menus, low lighting, and a bartender who was on-point with her Estonian-Irish accentโplus cocktails that were legitimately good.
Missing Citas
We did miss a few citas… kinda. Between visits from Kateโs dad, my sister Vicki, and a steady stream of friends, a few citas were happily hijacked. We didnโt always make it somewhere new, but we made it somewhere greatโrevisiting favorites like Berbena, Martรญnez, Come, and cookouts, all with a few extra chairs at the table.
Cita 26: Vivood Landscape Hotel -> Torre del Marquรฉs
Vivood Landscape Hotel
Tucked into the hills near Alicante, Vivood offered a sleek private villa with a pool, a soundtrack of chirping crickets, and enough stillness to remember past travelsโand start planning the next. Kate said the official “Cita” from this birthday getaway was at the next spot, but the floating breakfast in our private pool has to have an honorable mention.
Torre del Marquรฉs
A 5-star retreat in the hills of Matarraรฑa, where stone walls, vineyard views, and stillness come standard. The highlight was our Picnic in the Field โ tortilla, cava, a simple ham and cheese plate, and fruit salad under open skiesโproof that the best meals sometimes come without menus. Bonus points for cards, good music, and zero restaurant noise.
Cita 24: Bar Donzell -> Ugoโs Cafรฉ
Bar Donzell
With just a handful of tables and zero interest in overpromising, Bar Donzell serves up lamb shank, pluma, and baked eggplant with cheese in generous, no-nonsense portions. Reservations essential. Hunger mandatory.
Ugoโs Cafรฉ
A bright new find in Poble Nou with cold brew on tap, iced lattes that hit just right, and the kind of neighborhood vibe that makes you want to visit Poble Nou again soon.
Cita 23: Cafeterรญa Moitama -> Onso Bakery
Cafeterรญa Moitama
A laid-back cafรฉ in Sant Antoni where the barista speaks more languages than you have fingers, and the flat white lands smoothly. Quietly excellent and effortlessly kind.
Onso Bakery
Right nearby, Onso serves flaky, buttery pastries in a stylish, chilled-out space that fills up fast for good reason. Cold drinks on hand and plenty of room to linger.
Cita 22: Casa Petra
Casa Petra
Tucked into a lively corner of Sant Gervasi, Casa Petra does traditional Catalan with enough modern energy to keep things interesting. We grabbed a table out front. Easygoing, unpretentious, and deeply local. The owner, originally from Buenos Aires, keeps the vibe warm, but the wine kept things cool.
Cita 19: Pappa & Citti
Pappa & Citti
A nice walk on a cool spring evening to this Sardinian-style spot — kinda in San Gervasi, kinda in Gracia. The burrata tray arrived like it knew it was the main event.
Website | Instagram
Cita 18: Casa Anita En Parรญs -> Solange Cocktail Bar
Casa Anita En Parรญs
The weather kept us local, and this Eixample bistro proved more than sufficient. Mediterranean style with good instinctsโburrata, garlic-parsley scallops, meatballs, and a beef sandwich that didnโt need to try too hard. The Priorat helped, as it always does.
Website | Instagram
Solange Cocktail Bar
To mark Cinco de Mayo and a certain first date from 1990, we headed to Solangeโa dimly lit nod to James Bond and strong drinks. Margaritas were ordered for thematic accuracy.
Website | Instagram
Cita 17: Vinus & Brindis
Vinus & Brindis
A tiny, well-curated wine shop in Sant Gervasi with just enough bar stools to feel like youโre in on a secret. Neus poured with care, introduced us to CORPINNAT (a very persuasive sparkling wine like Cava), and sent us off with a bottle (or two), and the quiet urge to make this spot a regular habit.
Website | Instagram
Cita 16: Takearte -> Origin. -> Primate
Takearte
A low-key taco joint in Sant Antoni serving casual, Mexico City-style street foodโno frills, just good fish tacos doing their job. Ideal for when youโre short on time but not on appetite.
Instagram
Update: Closed a week later. We thought the cockroach in the bathroom was just part of it being “authentic”, but maybe not.
Primate Bakehouse
Tucked into Sant Antoni like so many other great places, Primate delivers flaky medialunas, excellent baguettes, and a peanut butter situation that reminds me of what we used to get in the States.
Website | Instagram
Origin. Specialty Coffee
A serene and pretty cafรฉ in Sant Antoni, Origin. Specialty Coffee was… fine. It won’t make our coffee guide, but it was still a great table in the sun, a nice way to spend some time together.
Website
Cita 15: Mesa Lobo -> Orient Express
Mesa Lobo
A French-meets-Nordic bistro in Eixample that is just the right kind of elevated. We had an early dinner (8:00) so we could meet Q coming in from London.
Website |
Orient Express Cocktail Bar
We still had some time to kill. This place had a full theatrical commitment to the train theme, right down to drink carts, conductors’ hats, and a view of what weโre fairly sure was the Croatian countryside rolling past on the screens. One part cocktail, one part Wes Anderson daydream.
Website | Instagram
Cita 14: Entrepreneur -> Bricks
Entrepreneur
Modern food for modern minds. This Poblenou spot feels like it was designed by someone who owns three startups. But no sign out front, so maybe a marketing class would be a good idea.
Website | Instagram
Bricks
Cozy cafรฉ and another sign-challenged location. The girls next to us were targeted by pigeons, but they say thatโs good luck.
Instagram
Cita 12: El Pa Torrat
El Pa Torrat
A Galvany classic, just off Turรณ Park. Itโs classic Catalanโbacalao, croquetas, and enough wood-paneled gravitas to make you sit up straight. I think the guy at the table next to us has been there since 1981.
Website | Instagram
Cita 11: Bitter -> Dolores
Bitter Cocktail Bar
A Sant Antoni hideout with herby cocktails and enough charm to warrant its own design blog post. So Iโve heard.
Website | Instagram
Seรฑora Dolores
Natural wines again โ so we went for vermut. Fried delights, vintage dรฉcor, and we finally found out why people kept looking behind the curtains.
Website | Instagram
Cita 10: Metl -> Ombรบ -> DShop -> Ancestral
Metl
Short menu, big heart. Mexican comfort food in Poblenou, cooked like somebodyโs abuela lives upstairs.
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Ombรบ
Specialty coffee in a snug corner of the city. If you donโt like this spot, there are at least four more coffee places on this block alone!
Website | Instagram
DShop
Located inside the Disseny Hub, this design store sells the kind of gifts you take photos of. Found Cam some cool futbolin hooks and a great water pitcher too.
Website
Ancestral
Craft brew & vermouth. I guess they have tapas too, but we come for the drinks. This one isnโt new, but was a perfect spot to linger before ending the cita.
Instagram
Cita 9: Glug
Glug
Mostly natural wines, a super-dope tiled bar, and a Catalan-Italian flavor profile that says โweโre not choosing sides.โ Bonus points for being fun to say. And God Damn, maybe the best French onion soup Iโve had.
Website | Instagram
Cita 8: Elocuente Cafรฉ & Libros -> Cafe Del Centre -> Forn Sarret
Elocuente Cafรฉ & Libros
Books, brews, and just the right level of hush.
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Cafรฉ del Centre
A 150-year-old institution still wearing its original woodwork. Order a vermut and pretend youโre in a black-and-white film.
Website | Instagram
Forn Sarret
Architectural pastry. Historic faรงade, flaky interior. The kind of bakery where you end up buying bread or a pastry just to carry it around.
Instagram
Cita 7: La Pachuca -> Coto
We bought these antique tiles (after several margaritas) because we thought they’d make great coasters — we have since discovered their origin… These “escarib” tiles are most likely from Valencia during the 15th century, and their siblings appear in both the British Museum and the Chicago Art Institute. But, honestly, they are also really good coasters.
La Pachuca
Almost all the way to the Mediterranean in Gotic, La Pachuca has margaritas, tacos, and enough neon energy to qualify as cardio. Loud in all the right ways.
Website | Instagram
Coto
Coffee shop meets concept store. The espressoโs tight, the merch is local, and the vibe whispers, โhey, you should buy that t-shirt with the little piggy on it.โ I did. Related to a favorite place in El Born… look for the streamers.
Website | Instagram
Cita 6: Cosa -> Oido
Cosa
Italian-roast coffee and artisanal pastries served in a space for caffeinated bliss.
Instagram
Oรญdo
A 1980s nostalgic Catalan vibe — complete with communal tables and culinary nostalgia. And a kinda cranky owner who didn’t seem to care for the non-locals โ the kind you find sometimes in Grร cia.
Instagram
Cita 5: Malparit
Malparit
Catalan cuisine with a bit of a spin. Sitting at the bar by the kitchen is a perfect place to watch the chefs who are dialed in on their dishes. Some really fun things to try and lots of good wine options.
Website | Instagram
Cita 4: Malhumor -> Osom Nou
Malhumor
Donโt be fooled by the nameโthis place serves brunch with a smile (and a Dutch accent). Simple, and HUGE portions.
Website | Instagram
Osom Nou
One of Poblenouโs hip, Instagram-friendly coffee spots. It will be part of our โDรญa de los Cortados.โ Details to comeโฆ
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Cita 3: Bar El Pepino -> La Gratitud
Bar El Pepino
Natural wine is not our favorite thing. But the owner found us a good one! A relaxed energy and the perfect level of tight and crowded. A good new find in Grร cia.
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La Gratitud
On Carrer del Torrent de lโOlla, and as vibrant as its name suggests. We were not planning to hit this spot, but it called out to us, with one of our favorite Mercรจ posters over the bar.
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Cita 2
Cita 1: Vermuteria Lou -> Casa Inรฉs -> Navy Coffee Bar -> Origo
Vermuteria Lou
A moody little spot in Grร cia with vintage signage and low lighting. It isnโt trying to look old, it is old. We toasted my Dad (Lou) with a nice vermouth.
Website | Instagram
Casa Inรฉs
Sleek, understated, and as we have learned sinceโquietly confident in its absinthe game. Next time!
Website | Instagram
Navy Coffee Bar
Scandinavian in design and dispositionโstoic espresso, minimalist seating, small and friendly.
Website | Instagram
Origo
Rust-colored, bread-forward, and teetering nicely between design showroom and a breakfast nook.
Website | Instagram