For Christmas 2024, Kate gave me a spiral-bound book and a yearlong reservation. Not to one place, but fifty-two to be visited throughout 2025. The gift was a planโ€”her plan for usโ€”to explore a new corner of Barcelona every week via lunch or dinner from our โ€œWant to Goโ€ list– places we haven’t been before.

Each week, Kate picks the spot, often with reservations made far in advance, and logs the details in our โ€œ52 Citasโ€ notebook. I show up and enjoy. Sometimes thereโ€™s a coffee stop beforehand, sometimes a cocktail afterward, and often both.

The notebook lives on our bar shelf and fills steadilyโ€”one page per week, one neighborhood at a time. She notes the dates, the dishes, and maybe an anecdote or two — the waiter who switched from Spanish to Dutch mid-sentence, margaritas that were just a little too good for a Tuesday, an Orient Express-themed speakeasy, a photo peep-show behind a curtain, and meeting new people and places. There are some crossed-out plans, a few bonus outings, and at least one entry that ends with โ€œbought antiquities.โ€ That one did have to do with margaritas.

It has been magical: exploring both favorite and new parts of the city, in bite-sized pieces. What started as a gift has become a rhythm. A choose-your-own-adventure (often with wine and tapas).

Kateโ€™s the mastermind. Iโ€™m the sidekick. Together, weโ€™re slowly eating our way through Barcelonaโ€”one amazing cita at a time.

Missed Citas?

Have there been any missed citas? Honestly, not really. I did a small post about it here.

Cita 50: Coming Soon

I have a couple more to share…

Cita 48: Per Feina

Per Feina

Weโ€™d heard this was a rising neighborhood favoriteโ€”bright, bustling, and full of energy. And when we walked in, it certainly felt that way. Servers were friendly, and the place was packed, with what seemed like a local work lunch crowd filling the tables.

The vibe was right, but the food didnโ€™t quite match. We went two waysโ€”one menu del dรญa, one ร  la carte. The salmorejo stood out, but the rest felt underseasoned and a little flat. Maybe it was the mood of the day, or maybe it just didnโ€™t hit. With so many places still to try, we wonโ€™t be racing back, but we wouldnโ€™t count it out either.

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Cita 46: Flipa

Flipa

There are a lot of corners in Sant Antoni that just get it rightโ€”and this little sandwich-and-vermut stop is one of them. Flipa is bright, tight, and cheery inside, with just a handful of seats and a tile-and-plywood vibe that felt very much like a hangout for people from the ‘hood. We split a couple of Italian-style focaccia sandwichesโ€”stacked with meats and cheeseโ€”though โ€œsplitโ€ is a generous term. We ordered two, knowing weโ€™d take home leftoversโ€ฆ

The best surprise? The vermut. Served in tiny corked bottles on individual trays with ice, olives, and orangeโ€”easily the best vermut presentation weโ€™ve seen.

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Cita 42: Nรบmero Nueve -> Galante

Nรบmero Nueve +

This one kicked off at Nรบmero Nueve in El Bornโ€”a cocktail bar that doesnโ€™t take itself too seriously. The place was buzzing, the playlist was vibey, and the drinks? Well, letโ€™s just say the โ€œOnlyFans Martiniโ€ was as cheeky as it sounds. We stayed for two rounds, easily, with the neon, the Polaroids, and a menu entertaining enough to read twice.

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Galante

Then we wandered into Galante, just a few blocks away, where everything felt familiarโ€ฆ and not. Turns out, we had been there beforeโ€”just under a different name. The new look leaned retro-Spanish deli, with hams hanging in the window and shelves stacked with conservas. We split a few rich bites, including a decadent grilled cheese-ish topped with chistorra. Different scene, same corner of the city. Barcelona canโ€™t help tinkering with itself. Fine by us.

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Cita 41: Vertical

Vertical

A close walk from us in Left Eixample, Vertical is a brand new spot โ€” two weeks after weโ€™d watched it get built out, we already couldnโ€™t imagine doing without it. Big wine coolers do that. Sleek, moody, and stocked to the ceiling with great bottles, itโ€™s a wine bar that wears its cool lightly. We opted for a bottle of Burgundy and quickly realized the sommelier used to work at Berbena (a long-time favorite!)โ€”always fun to recognize a familiar face. There are a few small tapas on offer, but really, this is a place to sit, sip, and stay longer than you planned. We will be back for the Lou!

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Cita 39: Ricรณn Catalรก -> El Roca

Rincรณn Catalรก

We popped into this cozy little spot just before El Rocaโ€”with glowing barrels and the promise of vermut on tap. Inside, it was all string lights, handwritten chalkboards, and a warm local vibe. The vermut was cheap and good, and the people-watching was free. Not fancy, not trying to beโ€”just a solid neighborhood vermuterรญa.


El Roca

Some places catch your eye from the outsideโ€”and El Roca is definitely one of them. The inside was funky and cool (audiophile design, record-lined walls), but it was a bit empty, and the terrace was calling on a beautiful night. We worked our way through vermut, a couple of claras, and a surprisingly good plate of pasta. The huevos estrellados with chistorra were a hit, and the mushroom-truffle croquetas didnโ€™t last long. Bonus: we ran into a friendly face from our gymโ€”turns out she owns Hello Olive, a lovely little shop weโ€™d visited on an earlier cita.

Cita 38: Galactic Bear Brewing -> Wawel Restobar -> Krakoviak

Galactic Bear Brewing

To get started, we swung by Galactic Bear Brewing for a quick pint. Itโ€™s a quirky little spot with a welcoming staff and fun branding (โ€œGood Beers for Good Bearsโ€). While the place had charm, the beer itself didnโ€™t blow us away. Still, always glad to support something localโ€”and the space is cute enough to merit a visit if youโ€™re nearby.

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Wawel Restobar

We were feeling a little nostalgic from our recent trip to Poland, so Kate made a reservation at Wawel Restobar, tucked near Sagrada Familia. The place was vibrant and packed, with one heroic server taking care of every table. The vibe was casual but warm, and the menu leaned fully into Polish comfort food. No beautiful food photos here โ€” but it was exactly what we wanted.

We started with the pierogis (plenty of dillโ€”highly recommended), then followed up with goulash and ลปywiec Biaล‚e, a wheat beer from the very town my family hails from. The restaurant owns a little tienda down the street that we visited โ€” we now have a good, local Polish market to visit again.

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Cita 37: Pรฉcora -> La Campechana -> Sensorial

Pรฉcora

A new stop for us in Poble Nou, Pรฉcora had good coffee and a super mellow vibe โ€” made instantly more entertaining by the Adidas crew filming a UK/Ireland print ad campaign. Staff were moving guests who werenโ€™t wearing Adidas out of frame, which only added to the fun. Chill spot. Great people-watching and it became a stop on our Dia de los Cortados.

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La Campechana

Lunch followed at La Campechana, where we each had a michelada and settled in for Mexican comfort food. Kate had chilaquiles. I had tacos (probably). The food was solid, though Spanish practice was a bust โ€” every attempt was answered in English. Doh.

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Sensorial Cafรฉ

Maybe it was the micheladas, but another flat white was in order after lunch! For that, we wandered to Sensorial, another of the countless coffee shops in Poblenou.

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Cita 36: Casa Fiero

Kate marked a couple of cocktail bars โ€”places that had lingered on the list for far too long. But when we finally showed up? One had transformed into a flower shop, and the other (aptly named Indecente) was completely shuttered. So we wandered toward our ultimate destination, Casa Fiero.

Casa Fiero

Tucked into a corner of Carrer Londres, Casa Fiero is the kind of corner spot youโ€™re genuinely glad you found. Itโ€™s run by the same team behind Maleducat in Sant Antoniโ€”so we were pretty sure it would be good. We slid into a table and stayed for a few rounds, starting with a killer glass of vermut. The vibe? Old-school Barcelona, updated with a smart mid-century touch. A little glam, a little playful, definitely cool.

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Cita 32: Bloody Mary Cocktail Bar -> Salero
(& Festa Major de Grร cia)

Bloody Mary Cocktail Bar

A quirky little spot in Grร cia with Warhol-inspired art, rows of Bloody Mary mix bottles, and bitters and hot sauces to taste.

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Salero

We had a table right next to the window with a view of the buzzing bee street – I’m guessing this night it was the best table in Barcelona. The food was bold and flavorful โ€” fried appetizers and saucy mains, with cava doing most of the heavy lifting.

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Festa Major de Grร cia

After drinks, and again after dinner, we wandered straight into Festa Major de Grร cia, where the streets transformed into a creative fever dream. We turned a corner and found ourselves in a full Star Wars diorama (hello, R2 and C-3PO), and then were swallowed by a giant glowing bee colony โ€” a street decked out in honeycomb lanterns and buzzing energy. The neighborhood truly shows off this time of year. Dinner ended just after midnight, but the dancing and drums were still going strong!

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Festa Major de Grร cia at 00:30 on a weekday

Cita 31: Almayer Coctail Bar -> Magatzem de ses Illes

Almayer Cocktail Bar

We started the night here, drawn in by the soft lighting, playful wall art, and a bartender who actually seemed to enjoy making drinks. Low-key and lovely, with A little kitschy, but balanced โ€” the drinks were the point.

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Magatzem de ses Illes

A cozy, quietly confident spot in Grร cia serving Mallorcan cuisine with heart and no unnecessary extras. Think stuffed piquillo peppers, grilled meats, and olive oil that tastes like someoneโ€™s abuela still bottles it by hand. The space feels like a charming mix of grandmaโ€™s kitchen and a classical music salonโ€”yes, thereโ€™s a cello on the wall.

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Cita 29: Karma -> Botero Muesum -> Catalan History Museum

Karma Coffee


A serene little cafรฉ tucked into the Gothic Quarter, Karma serves carefully sourced beans with great espresso and quiet charm.

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The Botero Detour

On to the Botero exhibit at Palau Martorell. Welp, it turns out, it had endedโ€ฆ the day before. (Not mentioned online, of course.) So we pivoted, as one does, and landed at the Catalan History Museum instead.

Catalan History Museum

Free admission thanks to a broken AC, which was generousโ€ฆ and sweaty. Learned a lot. Laughed more. Not the Cita we planned, but exactly the kind we remember.

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Cita 28: Swagatam

Swagatam

A cheerful neighborhood Indian spot in Grร cia with friendly service, bright walls, and comforting plates of samosas, paneer, korma, and naan. Nothing fancyโ€”just warm hospitality and rich spices. One of us loved it. One of us smiled politely. They canโ€™t all be winners.

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Cita 27: NOA Chefโ€™s Hall -> Whisper Sister

NOA Chefโ€™s Hall

A destination in every sense, NOA sits on the Estonian coast with sweeping sea views and a Michelin pedigree that doesnโ€™t feel like itโ€™s trying too hard. The setting is slick Scandinavian minimalism; the food is maximalist in all the best waysโ€”delicate tacos with edible flowers, caviar-topped halibut, and a wine pairing that kept the glasses full and the smiles steady.

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Whisper Sister

Tucked behind an unmarked door in Tallinnโ€™s Old Town, this speakeasy nails the Prohibition-era mood without the fuss. Apparently, speakeasies are new to Estonia, and all the neighbors are very confused by the lack of signage. LOL! Leather menus, low lighting, and a bartender who was on-point with her Estonian-Irish accentโ€”plus cocktails that were legitimately good.

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Missing Citas


We did miss a few citas… kinda. Between visits from Kateโ€™s dad, my sister Vicki, and a steady stream of friends, a few citas were happily hijacked. We didnโ€™t always make it somewhere new, but we made it somewhere greatโ€”revisiting favorites like Berbena, Martรญnez, Come, and cookouts, all with a few extra chairs at the table.

Cita 26: Vivood Landscape Hotel -> Torre del Marquรฉs

Vivood Landscape Hotel

Tucked into the hills near Alicante, Vivood offered a sleek private villa with a pool, a soundtrack of chirping crickets, and enough stillness to remember past travelsโ€”and start planning the next. Kate said the official “Cita” from this birthday getaway was at the next spot, but the floating breakfast in our private pool has to have an honorable mention.

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Torre del Marquรฉs

A 5-star retreat in the hills of Matarraรฑa, where stone walls, vineyard views, and stillness come standard. The highlight was our Picnic in the Field โ€” tortilla, cava, a simple ham and cheese plate, and fruit salad under open skiesโ€”proof that the best meals sometimes come without menus. Bonus points for cards, good music, and zero restaurant noise.

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Cita 24: Bar Donzell -> Ugoโ€™s Cafรฉ

Bar Donzell

With just a handful of tables and zero interest in overpromising, Bar Donzell serves up lamb shank, pluma, and baked eggplant with cheese in generous, no-nonsense portions. Reservations essential. Hunger mandatory.

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Ugoโ€™s Cafรฉ

A bright new find in Poble Nou with cold brew on tap, iced lattes that hit just right, and the kind of neighborhood vibe that makes you want to visit Poble Nou again soon.

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Cita 23: Cafeterรญa Moitama -> Onso Bakery

Cafeterรญa Moitama

A laid-back cafรฉ in Sant Antoni where the barista speaks more languages than you have fingers, and the flat white lands smoothly. Quietly excellent and effortlessly kind.


Onso Bakery

Right nearby, Onso serves flaky, buttery pastries in a stylish, chilled-out space that fills up fast for good reason. Cold drinks on hand and plenty of room to linger.

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Cita 22: Casa Petra

Casa Petra

Tucked into a lively corner of Sant Gervasi, Casa Petra does traditional Catalan with enough modern energy to keep things interesting. We grabbed a table out front. Easygoing, unpretentious, and deeply local. The owner, originally from Buenos Aires, keeps the vibe warm, but the wine kept things cool.

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Cita 19: Pappa & Citti

Pappa & Citti

A nice walk on a cool spring evening to this Sardinian-style spot — kinda in San Gervasi, kinda in Gracia. The burrata tray arrived like it knew it was the main event.
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Cita 18: Casa Anita En Parรญs -> Solange Cocktail Bar

Casa Anita En Parรญs

The weather kept us local, and this Eixample bistro proved more than sufficient. Mediterranean style with good instinctsโ€”burrata, garlic-parsley scallops, meatballs, and a beef sandwich that didnโ€™t need to try too hard. The Priorat helped, as it always does.
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Solange Cocktail Bar

To mark Cinco de Mayo and a certain first date from 1990, we headed to Solangeโ€”a dimly lit nod to James Bond and strong drinks. Margaritas were ordered for thematic accuracy.
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Cita 17: Vinus & Brindis

Vinus & Brindis

A tiny, well-curated wine shop in Sant Gervasi with just enough bar stools to feel like youโ€™re in on a secret. Neus poured with care, introduced us to CORPINNAT (a very persuasive sparkling wine like Cava), and sent us off with a bottle (or two), and the quiet urge to make this spot a regular habit.
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Cita 16: Takearte -> Origin. -> Primate

Takearte

A low-key taco joint in Sant Antoni serving casual, Mexico City-style street foodโ€”no frills, just good fish tacos doing their job. Ideal for when youโ€™re short on time but not on appetite.
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Update: Closed a week later. We thought the cockroach in the bathroom was just part of it being “authentic”, but maybe not.


Primate Bakehouse

Tucked into Sant Antoni like so many other great places, Primate delivers flaky medialunas, excellent baguettes, and a peanut butter situation that reminds me of what we used to get in the States.
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Origin. Specialty Coffee

A serene and pretty cafรฉ in Sant Antoni, Origin. Specialty Coffee was… fine. It won’t make our coffee guide, but it was still a great table in the sun, a nice way to spend some time together.
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Cita 15: Mesa Lobo -> Orient Express

Mesa Lobo

A French-meets-Nordic bistro in Eixample that is just the right kind of elevated. We had an early dinner (8:00) so we could meet Q coming in from London.
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Orient Express Cocktail Bar

We still had some time to kill. This place had a full theatrical commitment to the train theme, right down to drink carts, conductors’ hats, and a view of what weโ€™re fairly sure was the Croatian countryside rolling past on the screens. One part cocktail, one part Wes Anderson daydream.
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Cita 14: Entrepreneur -> Bricks

Entrepreneur

Modern food for modern minds. This Poblenou spot feels like it was designed by someone who owns three startups. But no sign out front, so maybe a marketing class would be a good idea.
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Bricks

Cozy cafรฉ and another sign-challenged location. The girls next to us were targeted by pigeons, but they say thatโ€™s good luck.
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Cita 12: El Pa Torrat

El Pa Torrat

A Galvany classic, just off Turรณ Park. Itโ€™s classic Catalanโ€”bacalao, croquetas, and enough wood-paneled gravitas to make you sit up straight. I think the guy at the table next to us has been there since 1981.
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Cita 11: Bitter -> Dolores

Bitter Cocktail Bar

A Sant Antoni hideout with herby cocktails and enough charm to warrant its own design blog post. So Iโ€™ve heard.
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Seรฑora Dolores

Natural wines again โ€” so we went for vermut. Fried delights, vintage dรฉcor, and we finally found out why people kept looking behind the curtains.
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Cita 10: Metl -> Ombรบ -> DShop -> Ancestral

Metl

Short menu, big heart. Mexican comfort food in Poblenou, cooked like somebodyโ€™s abuela lives upstairs.
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Ombรบ

Specialty coffee in a snug corner of the city. If you donโ€™t like this spot, there are at least four more coffee places on this block alone!
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DShop

Located inside the Disseny Hub, this design store sells the kind of gifts you take photos of. Found Cam some cool futbolin hooks and a great water pitcher too.
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Ancestral

Craft brew & vermouth. I guess they have tapas too, but we come for the drinks. This one isnโ€™t new, but was a perfect spot to linger before ending the cita.
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Cita 9: Glug

Glug

Mostly natural wines, a super-dope tiled bar, and a Catalan-Italian flavor profile that says โ€œweโ€™re not choosing sides.โ€ Bonus points for being fun to say. And God Damn, maybe the best French onion soup Iโ€™ve had.
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Cita 8: Elocuente Cafรฉ & Libros -> Cafe Del Centre -> Forn Sarret

Elocuente Cafรฉ & Libros

Books, brews, and just the right level of hush.
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Cafรฉ del Centre

A 150-year-old institution still wearing its original woodwork. Order a vermut and pretend youโ€™re in a black-and-white film.
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Forn Sarret

Architectural pastry. Historic faรงade, flaky interior. The kind of bakery where you end up buying bread or a pastry just to carry it around.
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Cita 7: La Pachuca -> Coto

La Pachuca

Almost all the way to the Mediterranean in Gotic, La Pachuca has margaritas, tacos, and enough neon energy to qualify as cardio. Loud in all the right ways.
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Coto

Coffee shop meets concept store. The espressoโ€™s tight, the merch is local, and the vibe whispers, โ€œhey, you should buy that t-shirt with the little piggy on it.โ€ I did. Related to a favorite place in El Born… look for the streamers.
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Cita 6: Cosa -> Oido

Cosa

Italian-roast coffee and artisanal pastries served in a space for caffeinated bliss.
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Oรญdo

A 1980s nostalgic Catalan vibe — complete with communal tables and culinary nostalgia. And a kinda cranky owner who didn’t seem to care for the non-locals โ€“ the kind you find sometimes in Grร cia.
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Cita 5: Malparit

Malparit

Catalan cuisine with a bit of a spin. Sitting at the bar by the kitchen is a perfect place to watch the chefs who are dialed in on their dishes. Some really fun things to try and lots of good wine options.
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Cita 4: Malhumor -> Osom Nou

Malhumor

Donโ€™t be fooled by the nameโ€”this place serves brunch with a smile (and a Dutch accent). Simple, and HUGE portions.
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Osom Nou

One of Poblenouโ€™s hip, Instagram-friendly coffee spots. It will be part of our โ€œDรญa de los Cortados.โ€ Details to comeโ€ฆ
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Cita 3: Bar El Pepino -> La Gratitud

Bar El Pepino

Natural wine is not our favorite thing. But the owner found us a good one! A relaxed energy and the perfect level of tight and crowded. A good new find in Grร cia.
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La Gratitud

On Carrer del Torrent de lโ€™Olla, and as vibrant as its name suggests. We were not planning to hit this spot, but it called out to us, with one of our favorite Mercรจ posters over the bar.
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Cita 2

Cita 1: Vermuteria Lou -> Casa Inรฉs -> Navy Coffee Bar -> Origo

Vermuteria Lou

A moody little spot in Grร cia with vintage signage and low lighting. It isnโ€™t trying to look old, it is old. We toasted my Dad (Lou) with a nice vermouth.
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Casa Inรฉs

Sleek, understated, and as we have learned sinceโ€”quietly confident in its absinthe game. Next time!
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Navy Coffee Bar

Scandinavian in design and dispositionโ€”stoic espresso, minimalist seating, small and friendly.
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Origo

Rust-colored, bread-forward, and teetering nicely between design showroom and a breakfast nook.
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As I was enjoying oysters, a glass of wine, and a good book, my mind began to wander. โ€œI feel like Iโ€™ve been here before.โ€ I set down my book and pulled out my phone to look at our family โ€œBeen There Done Thatโ€ Google Maps list. And I had been there. Not in that restaurant, but in that location. I knew it! That caused me to start browsing โ€” finding other places that have changed in the time weโ€™ve been here. There were some places I had been to as three different restaurants.

The city is organic and always changing. You might walk by a closed door a dozen times without giving it any thought, only to walk by and see a brilliant new restaurant or shop reaching far back into the space behind each building as if it has always been there. Or a favorite place that closes, only to be replaced by another favorite just a few weeks later. Or sometimes you donโ€™t even notice an absence until something new pops up.

Our block, in the center of this photograph, is always changing. This project aims to follow and memorialize those changes over the course of months and years.

Memorializing our block

As I try to remember, โ€œWhat was here before?โ€ I realize I have an opportunity to memorialize the places on our new block from the start of our time here. So thatโ€™s what I am setting out to do. I grabbed our low-res Leica and began to photograph the places, walking around only our block. Since shops and restaurants have a โ€“ letโ€™s call it a loosey-goosey schedule, I have grabbed some missing spots with my phone and clumsily tried to degrade them to match. But I plan to replace those with the same camera when I am able.

The four sidesโ€”Sea, Right, Mountain, and Leftโ€”each have their own personality. As they change, I plan to take new photos and follow the progression of each, seeing how our block changes over the months and years. This post, much like our block, will evolve as places change. Some already have.

The sea side

The right side

The mountain side

The left side

BCN Coffee Guide

Please, don’t come to Barcelona and drink Starbucks! This place is loaded with great coffee shops. If you’re like me and want to start your day with a Flat White, grab an Iced Latte or Espresso in the heat, or end your evening with a Cortado, then it’s good to know what spots are nearby. And it is certainly how you want to kill your jet lag on day one!

So we put together this little Google List of what we think are the best coffee places in town — spread out so you can find something in almost any neighborhood.

If you aren’t close to any of these and need a caffeine fix, and want to wander in somewhere new, look for a La Marzocco machine serving Nomad, Three Marks, or any other local roasters, and you’re probably in pretty good shape.

And nothing goes better with coffee than a good book (on the same list). Barcelona has many great English Book Stores or places with an English section. Our favorite is Finestres, which has such micro-categories (with all the languages mixed together) that you’re sure to find something interesting that you hadn’t heard of before. And they encourage you to relax, sit and read. And while not on our list, there are a lot of Re-Read Used Bookstores with pretty good English sections too.

Hope this helps you keep going as you explore all the cool spots in Barcelona.

Not just Barcelona. Not just walls. This is a grab bag of finely-tuned spray paint, clever stickers, cryptic stencils, and the occasional pure graffiti with something urgent to say. I take pictures of street art that catches my eyeโ€”usually wandering down some narrow street to see what there is to offer, occasionally while lost.