For Christmas 2024, Kate gave me a spiral-bound book and a yearlong reservation. Not to one place, but fifty-two to be visited throughout 2025. The gift was a plan—her plan for us—to explore a new corner of Barcelona every week via lunch or dinner from our “Want to Go” list– places we haven’t been before.
Each week, Kate picks the spot, often with reservations made far in advance, and logs the details in our “52 Citas” notebook. I show up and enjoy. Sometimes there’s a coffee stop beforehand, sometimes a cocktail afterward, and often both.
The notebook lives on our bar shelf and fills steadily—one page per week, one neighborhood at a time. She notes the dates, the dishes, and maybe an anecdote or two — the waiter who switched from Spanish to Dutch mid-sentence, margaritas that were just a little too good for a Tuesday, an Orient Express-themed speakeasy, a photo peep-show behind a curtain, and meeting new people and places. There are some crossed-out plans, a few bonus outings, and at least one entry that ends with “bought antiquities.” That one did have to do with margaritas.
It has been magical: exploring both favorite and new parts of the city, in bite-sized pieces. What started as a gift has become a rhythm. A choose-your-own-adventure (often with wine and tapas).
Kate’s the mastermind. I’m the sidekick. Together, we’re slowly eating our way through Barcelona—one amazing cita at a time.
Missed Citas?
Have there been any missed citas? Honestly, not really. I did a small post about it here.
Cita 50: Coming Soon
I have a couple more to share…
Cita 48: Per Feina
Per Feina
We’d heard this was a rising neighborhood favorite—bright, bustling, and full of energy. And when we walked in, it certainly felt that way. Servers were friendly, and the place was packed, with what seemed like a local work lunch crowd filling the tables.
The vibe was right, but the food didn’t quite match. We went two ways—one menu del día, one à la carte. The salmorejo stood out, but the rest felt underseasoned and a little flat. Maybe it was the mood of the day, or maybe it just didn’t hit. With so many places still to try, we won’t be racing back, but we wouldn’t count it out either.
Cita 46: Flipa
Flipa
There are a lot of corners in Sant Antoni that just get it right—and this little sandwich-and-vermut stop is one of them. Flipa is bright, tight, and cheery inside, with just a handful of seats and a tile-and-plywood vibe that felt very much like a hangout for people from the ‘hood. We split a couple of Italian-style focaccia sandwiches—stacked with meats and cheese—though “split” is a generous term. We ordered two, knowing we’d take home leftovers…
The best surprise? The vermut. Served in tiny corked bottles on individual trays with ice, olives, and orange—easily the best vermut presentation we’ve seen.
Cita 42: Número Nueve -> Galante
Número Nueve +
This one kicked off at Número Nueve in El Born—a cocktail bar that doesn’t take itself too seriously. The place was buzzing, the playlist was vibey, and the drinks? Well, let’s just say the “OnlyFans Martini” was as cheeky as it sounds. We stayed for two rounds, easily, with the neon, the Polaroids, and a menu entertaining enough to read twice.
Galante
Then we wandered into Galante, just a few blocks away, where everything felt familiar… and not. Turns out, we had been there before—just under a different name. The new look leaned retro-Spanish deli, with hams hanging in the window and shelves stacked with conservas. We split a few rich bites, including a decadent grilled cheese-ish topped with chistorra. Different scene, same corner of the city. Barcelona can’t help tinkering with itself. Fine by us.
Cita 41: Vertical
Vertical
A close walk from us in Left Eixample, Vertical is a brand new spot — two weeks after we’d watched it get built out, we already couldn’t imagine doing without it. Big wine coolers do that. Sleek, moody, and stocked to the ceiling with great bottles, it’s a wine bar that wears its cool lightly. We opted for a bottle of Burgundy and quickly realized the sommelier used to work at Berbena (a long-time favorite!)—always fun to recognize a familiar face. There are a few small tapas on offer, but really, this is a place to sit, sip, and stay longer than you planned. We will be back for the Lou!
Cita 39: Ricón Catalá -> El Roca
Rincón Catalá
We popped into this cozy little spot just before El Roca—with glowing barrels and the promise of vermut on tap. Inside, it was all string lights, handwritten chalkboards, and a warm local vibe. The vermut was cheap and good, and the people-watching was free. Not fancy, not trying to be—just a solid neighborhood vermutería.
El Roca
Some places catch your eye from the outside—and El Roca is definitely one of them. The inside was funky and cool (audiophile design, record-lined walls), but it was a bit empty, and the terrace was calling on a beautiful night. We worked our way through vermut, a couple of claras, and a surprisingly good plate of pasta. The huevos estrellados with chistorra were a hit, and the mushroom-truffle croquetas didn’t last long. Bonus: we ran into a friendly face from our gym—turns out she owns Hello Olive, a lovely little shop we’d visited on an earlier cita.
Cita 38: Galactic Bear Brewing -> Wawel Restobar -> Krakoviak
Galactic Bear Brewing
To get started, we swung by Galactic Bear Brewing for a quick pint. It’s a quirky little spot with a welcoming staff and fun branding (“Good Beers for Good Bears”). While the place had charm, the beer itself didn’t blow us away. Still, always glad to support something local—and the space is cute enough to merit a visit if you’re nearby.
Wawel Restobar
We were feeling a little nostalgic from our recent trip to Poland, so Kate made a reservation at Wawel Restobar, tucked near Sagrada Familia. The place was vibrant and packed, with one heroic server taking care of every table. The vibe was casual but warm, and the menu leaned fully into Polish comfort food. No beautiful food photos here — but it was exactly what we wanted.
We started with the pierogis (plenty of dill—highly recommended), then followed up with goulash and Żywiec Białe, a wheat beer from the very town my family hails from. The restaurant owns a little tienda down the street that we visited — we now have a good, local Polish market to visit again.
Cita 37: Pécora -> La Campechana -> Sensorial
Pécora
A new stop for us in Poble Nou, Pécora had good coffee and a super mellow vibe — made instantly more entertaining by the Adidas crew filming a UK/Ireland print ad campaign. Staff were moving guests who weren’t wearing Adidas out of frame, which only added to the fun. Chill spot. Great people-watching and it became a stop on our Dia de los Cortados.
La Campechana
Lunch followed at La Campechana, where we each had a michelada and settled in for Mexican comfort food. Kate had chilaquiles. I had tacos (probably). The food was solid, though Spanish practice was a bust — every attempt was answered in English. Doh.
Sensorial Café
Maybe it was the micheladas, but another flat white was in order after lunch! For that, we wandered to Sensorial, another of the countless coffee shops in Poblenou.
Cita 36: Casa Fiero
Kate marked a couple of cocktail bars —places that had lingered on the list for far too long. But when we finally showed up? One had transformed into a flower shop, and the other (aptly named Indecente) was completely shuttered. So we wandered toward our ultimate destination, Casa Fiero.
Casa Fiero
Tucked into a corner of Carrer Londres, Casa Fiero is the kind of corner spot you’re genuinely glad you found. It’s run by the same team behind Maleducat in Sant Antoni—so we were pretty sure it would be good. We slid into a table and stayed for a few rounds, starting with a killer glass of vermut. The vibe? Old-school Barcelona, updated with a smart mid-century touch. A little glam, a little playful, definitely cool.
Cita 32: Bloody Mary Cocktail Bar -> Salero
(& Festa Major de Gràcia)
Bloody Mary Cocktail Bar
A quirky little spot in Gràcia with Warhol-inspired art, rows of Bloody Mary mix bottles, and bitters and hot sauces to taste.
Salero
We had a table right next to the window with a view of the buzzing bee street – I’m guessing this night it was the best table in Barcelona. The food was bold and flavorful — fried appetizers and saucy mains, with cava doing most of the heavy lifting.
Festa Major de Gràcia
After drinks, and again after dinner, we wandered straight into Festa Major de Gràcia, where the streets transformed into a creative fever dream. We turned a corner and found ourselves in a full Star Wars diorama (hello, R2 and C-3PO), and then were swallowed by a giant glowing bee colony — a street decked out in honeycomb lanterns and buzzing energy. The neighborhood truly shows off this time of year. Dinner ended just after midnight, but the dancing and drums were still going strong!
Cita 31: Almayer Coctail Bar -> Magatzem de ses Illes
Almayer Cocktail Bar
We started the night here, drawn in by the soft lighting, playful wall art, and a bartender who actually seemed to enjoy making drinks. Low-key and lovely, with A little kitschy, but balanced — the drinks were the point.
Magatzem de ses Illes
A cozy, quietly confident spot in Gràcia serving Mallorcan cuisine with heart and no unnecessary extras. Think stuffed piquillo peppers, grilled meats, and olive oil that tastes like someone’s abuela still bottles it by hand. The space feels like a charming mix of grandma’s kitchen and a classical music salon—yes, there’s a cello on the wall.
Cita 29: Karma -> Botero Muesum -> Catalan History Museum
Karma Coffee
A serene little café tucked into the Gothic Quarter, Karma serves carefully sourced beans with great espresso and quiet charm.
The Botero Detour
On to the Botero exhibit at Palau Martorell. Welp, it turns out, it had ended… the day before. (Not mentioned online, of course.) So we pivoted, as one does, and landed at the Catalan History Museum instead.
Catalan History Museum
Free admission thanks to a broken AC, which was generous… and sweaty. Learned a lot. Laughed more. Not the Cita we planned, but exactly the kind we remember.
Cita 28: Swagatam
Swagatam
A cheerful neighborhood Indian spot in Gràcia with friendly service, bright walls, and comforting plates of samosas, paneer, korma, and naan. Nothing fancy—just warm hospitality and rich spices. One of us loved it. One of us smiled politely. They can’t all be winners.
Cita 27: NOA Chef’s Hall -> Whisper Sister
NOA Chef’s Hall
A destination in every sense, NOA sits on the Estonian coast with sweeping sea views and a Michelin pedigree that doesn’t feel like it’s trying too hard. The setting is slick Scandinavian minimalism; the food is maximalist in all the best ways—delicate tacos with edible flowers, caviar-topped halibut, and a wine pairing that kept the glasses full and the smiles steady.
Whisper Sister
Tucked behind an unmarked door in Tallinn’s Old Town, this speakeasy nails the Prohibition-era mood without the fuss. Apparently, speakeasies are new to Estonia, and all the neighbors are very confused by the lack of signage. LOL! Leather menus, low lighting, and a bartender who was on-point with her Estonian-Irish accent—plus cocktails that were legitimately good.
Missing Citas
We did miss a few citas… kinda. Between visits from Kate’s dad, my sister Vicki, and a steady stream of friends, a few citas were happily hijacked. We didn’t always make it somewhere new, but we made it somewhere great—revisiting favorites like Berbena, Martínez, Come, and cookouts, all with a few extra chairs at the table.
Cita 26: Vivood Landscape Hotel -> Torre del Marqués
Vivood Landscape Hotel
Tucked into the hills near Alicante, Vivood offered a sleek private villa with a pool, a soundtrack of chirping crickets, and enough stillness to remember past travels—and start planning the next. Kate said the official “Cita” from this birthday getaway was at the next spot, but the floating breakfast in our private pool has to have an honorable mention.
Torre del Marqués
A 5-star retreat in the hills of Matarraña, where stone walls, vineyard views, and stillness come standard. The highlight was our Picnic in the Field — tortilla, cava, a simple ham and cheese plate, and fruit salad under open skies—proof that the best meals sometimes come without menus. Bonus points for cards, good music, and zero restaurant noise.
Cita 24: Bar Donzell -> Ugo’s Café
Bar Donzell
With just a handful of tables and zero interest in overpromising, Bar Donzell serves up lamb shank, pluma, and baked eggplant with cheese in generous, no-nonsense portions. Reservations essential. Hunger mandatory.
Ugo’s Café
A bright new find in Poble Nou with cold brew on tap, iced lattes that hit just right, and the kind of neighborhood vibe that makes you want to visit Poble Nou again soon.
Cita 23: Cafetería Moitama -> Onso Bakery
Cafetería Moitama
A laid-back café in Sant Antoni where the barista speaks more languages than you have fingers, and the flat white lands smoothly. Quietly excellent and effortlessly kind.
Onso Bakery
Right nearby, Onso serves flaky, buttery pastries in a stylish, chilled-out space that fills up fast for good reason. Cold drinks on hand and plenty of room to linger.
Cita 22: Casa Petra
Casa Petra
Tucked into a lively corner of Sant Gervasi, Casa Petra does traditional Catalan with enough modern energy to keep things interesting. We grabbed a table out front. Easygoing, unpretentious, and deeply local. The owner, originally from Buenos Aires, keeps the vibe warm, but the wine kept things cool.
Cita 19: Pappa & Citti
Pappa & Citti
A nice walk on a cool spring evening to this Sardinian-style spot — kinda in San Gervasi, kinda in Gracia. The burrata tray arrived like it knew it was the main event.
Website | Instagram
Cita 18: Casa Anita En París -> Solange Cocktail Bar
Casa Anita En París
The weather kept us local, and this Eixample bistro proved more than sufficient. Mediterranean style with good instincts—burrata, garlic-parsley scallops, meatballs, and a beef sandwich that didn’t need to try too hard. The Priorat helped, as it always does.
Website | Instagram
Solange Cocktail Bar
To mark Cinco de Mayo and a certain first date from 1990, we headed to Solange—a dimly lit nod to James Bond and strong drinks. Margaritas were ordered for thematic accuracy.
Website | Instagram
Cita 17: Vinus & Brindis
Vinus & Brindis
A tiny, well-curated wine shop in Sant Gervasi with just enough bar stools to feel like you’re in on a secret. Neus poured with care, introduced us to CORPINNAT (a very persuasive sparkling wine like Cava), and sent us off with a bottle (or two), and the quiet urge to make this spot a regular habit.
Website | Instagram
Cita 16: Takearte -> Origin. -> Primate
Takearte
A low-key taco joint in Sant Antoni serving casual, Mexico City-style street food—no frills, just good fish tacos doing their job. Ideal for when you’re short on time but not on appetite.
Instagram
Update: Closed a week later. We thought the cockroach in the bathroom was just part of it being “authentic”, but maybe not.
Primate Bakehouse
Tucked into Sant Antoni like so many other great places, Primate delivers flaky medialunas, excellent baguettes, and a peanut butter situation that reminds me of what we used to get in the States.
Website | Instagram
Origin. Specialty Coffee
A serene and pretty café in Sant Antoni, Origin. Specialty Coffee was… fine. It won’t make our coffee guide, but it was still a great table in the sun, a nice way to spend some time together.
Website
Cita 15: Mesa Lobo -> Orient Express
Mesa Lobo
A French-meets-Nordic bistro in Eixample that is just the right kind of elevated. We had an early dinner (8:00) so we could meet Q coming in from London.
Website | Instagram
Orient Express Cocktail Bar
We still had some time to kill. This place had a full theatrical commitment to the train theme, right down to drink carts, conductors’ hats, and a view of what we’re fairly sure was the Croatian countryside rolling past on the screens. One part cocktail, one part Wes Anderson daydream.
Website | Instagram
Cita 14: Entrepreneur -> Bricks
Entrepreneur
Modern food for modern minds. This Poblenou spot feels like it was designed by someone who owns three startups. But no sign out front, so maybe a marketing class would be a good idea.
Website | Instagram
Bricks
Cozy café and another sign-challenged location. The girls next to us were targeted by pigeons, but they say that’s good luck.
Instagram
Cita 12: El Pa Torrat
El Pa Torrat
A Galvany classic, just off Turó Park. It’s classic Catalan—bacalao, croquetas, and enough wood-paneled gravitas to make you sit up straight. I think the guy at the table next to us has been there since 1981.
Website | Instagram
Cita 11: Bitter -> Dolores
Bitter Cocktail Bar
A Sant Antoni hideout with herby cocktails and enough charm to warrant its own design blog post. So I’ve heard.
Website | Instagram
Señora Dolores
Natural wines again — so we went for vermut. Fried delights, vintage décor, and we finally found out why people kept looking behind the curtains.
Website | Instagram
Cita 10: Metl -> Ombú -> DShop -> Ancestral
Metl
Short menu, big heart. Mexican comfort food in Poblenou, cooked like somebody’s abuela lives upstairs.
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Ombú
Specialty coffee in a snug corner of the city. If you don’t like this spot, there are at least four more coffee places on this block alone!
Website | Instagram
DShop
Located inside the Disseny Hub, this design store sells the kind of gifts you take photos of. Found Cam some cool futbolin hooks and a great water pitcher too.
Website
Ancestral
Craft brew & vermouth. I guess they have tapas too, but we come for the drinks. This one isn’t new, but was a perfect spot to linger before ending the cita.
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Cita 9: Glug
Glug
Mostly natural wines, a super-dope tiled bar, and a Catalan-Italian flavor profile that says “we’re not choosing sides.” Bonus points for being fun to say. And God Damn, maybe the best French onion soup I’ve had.
Website | Instagram
Cita 8: Elocuente Café & Libros -> Cafe Del Centre -> Forn Sarret
Elocuente Café & Libros
Books, brews, and just the right level of hush.
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Café del Centre
A 150-year-old institution still wearing its original woodwork. Order a vermut and pretend you’re in a black-and-white film.
Website | Instagram
Forn Sarret
Architectural pastry. Historic façade, flaky interior. The kind of bakery where you end up buying bread or a pastry just to carry it around.
Instagram
Cita 7: La Pachuca -> Coto
We bought these antique tiles (after several margaritas) because we thought they’d make great coasters — we have since discovered their origin… These “escarib” tiles are most likely from Valencia during the 15th century, and their siblings appear in both the British Museum and the Chicago Art Institute. But, honestly, they are also really good coasters.
La Pachuca
Almost all the way to the Mediterranean in Gotic, La Pachuca has margaritas, tacos, and enough neon energy to qualify as cardio. Loud in all the right ways.
Website | Instagram
Coto
Coffee shop meets concept store. The espresso’s tight, the merch is local, and the vibe whispers, “hey, you should buy that t-shirt with the little piggy on it.” I did. Related to a favorite place in El Born… look for the streamers.
Website | Instagram
Cita 6: Cosa -> Oido
Cosa
Italian-roast coffee and artisanal pastries served in a space for caffeinated bliss.
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Oído
A 1980s nostalgic Catalan vibe — complete with communal tables and culinary nostalgia. And a kinda cranky owner who didn’t seem to care for the non-locals – the kind you find sometimes in Gràcia.
Instagram
Cita 5: Malparit
Malparit
Catalan cuisine with a bit of a spin. Sitting at the bar by the kitchen is a perfect place to watch the chefs who are dialed in on their dishes. Some really fun things to try and lots of good wine options.
Website | Instagram
Cita 4: Malhumor -> Osom Nou
Malhumor
Don’t be fooled by the name—this place serves brunch with a smile (and a Dutch accent). Simple, and HUGE portions.
Website | Instagram
Osom Nou
One of Poblenou’s hip, Instagram-friendly coffee spots. It will be part of our “Día de los Cortados.” Details to come…
Instagram
Cita 3: Bar El Pepino -> La Gratitud
Bar El Pepino
Natural wine is not our favorite thing. But the owner found us a good one! A relaxed energy and the perfect level of tight and crowded. A good new find in Gràcia.
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La Gratitud
On Carrer del Torrent de l’Olla, and as vibrant as its name suggests. We were not planning to hit this spot, but it called out to us, with one of our favorite Mercè posters over the bar.
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Cita 2
Cita 1: Vermuteria Lou -> Casa Inés -> Navy Coffee Bar -> Origo
Vermuteria Lou
A moody little spot in Gràcia with vintage signage and low lighting. It isn’t trying to look old, it is old. We toasted my Dad (Lou) with a nice vermouth.
Website | Instagram
Casa Inés
Sleek, understated, and as we have learned since—quietly confident in its absinthe game. Next time!
Website | Instagram
Navy Coffee Bar
Scandinavian in design and disposition—stoic espresso, minimalist seating, small and friendly.
Website | Instagram
Origo
Rust-colored, bread-forward, and teetering nicely between design showroom and a breakfast nook.
Website | Instagram
