On 12-Aug-2026, a total solar eclipse crossed northern Spain at sunset. Our friend Raül invited us to watch it from his winery in Priorat, which sounded like a brilliant way to see the event.
Priorat, our favorite wine region, is southwest of Barcelona. Ferrer Bobet sits on a hilltop with the vineyards falling away on every side. It would be a hard place to improve on for staring at the sky.
Things started the way good things start in Spain. A jamón carver named Jordi Subirats working a leg by hand in front of the windows. A sparkling Taïka from Castell d’Encús being poured to say hello. Then a tour of the cellar along with a bit of philosophy and meeting new friends.
Back outside, an astronomer gave a talk on how to observe the eclipse. In Catalan, but we got the gist. His key slide was a figure looking straight at the sun with the word NO!!!! next to it in red. Four exclamation points. Point taken, but it was kinda hard not to give it an occasional glance as it was starting.
The sun dropped toward the ridge. The light went strange, and then it went gold, and then the whole place got quiet. The last sliver went and there it was, a black disc with a ring of fire around it, hanging just above the hills. I’ve seen the photos of this before. This was not the same thing. To top it off, once the sun set, we were treated to a meteor shower, surrounded by the hills of Priorat.
What an amazing, once-in-a-lifetime experience. Thanks to Raül and the Ferrer Bobet team.
Back in Barcelona, the kids took their cousin up to our roof for the same show, glasses on, cooler at their feet. Different view, same sun. Another amazing time.
