For Christmas, Kate gave me a spiral-bound book and a yearlong reservation. Not to one place, but fifty-two. The gift was a plan—her plan for us—to explore a new corner of Barcelona every week via lunch or dinner from our “Want to Go” list– places we haven’t been before.

Each week, Kate picks the spot, often with reservations made far in advance, and logs the details in our “52 Citas” notebook. I show up and enjoy. Sometimes there’s a coffee stop beforehand, sometimes a cocktail afterward, and often both.

The notebook lives on our bar shelf and fills steadily—one page per week, one neighborhood at a time. She notes the dates, the dishes, and maybe an anecdote or two — the waiter who switched from Spanish to Dutch mid-sentence, margaritas that were just a little too good for a Tuesday, an Orient Express-themed speak-easy, a photo peep-show behind a curtain, and meeting new people and places. There are some crossed-out plans, a few bonus outings, and at least one entry that ends with “bought antiquities.” That one did have to do with margaritas.

It has been magical: exploring both favorite and new parts of the city, in bite-sized pieces. What started as a gift has become a rhythm. A choose-your-own-adventure (often with wine and tapas).

Kate’s the mastermind. I’m the sidekick. Together, we’re slowly eating our way through Barcelona—one amazing cita at a time.

Cita 32: Bloody Mary Cocktail Bar -> Salero
(& Festa Major de Gràcia)

Bloody Mary Cocktail Bar

A quirky little spot in Gràcia with Warhol-inspired art, rows of Bloody Mary mix bottles, and bitters and hot sauces to taste.

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Salero

We had a table right next to the window with a view of the buzzing bee street – I’m guessing this night it was the best table in Barcelona. The food was bold and flavorful — fried appetizers, saucy mains, and crisp cava to keep things cool.

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Festa Major de Gràcia

After drinks, and again after dinner, we wandered straight into Festa Major de Gràcia, where the streets transformed into a creative fever dream. We turned a corner and found ourselves in a full Star Wars diorama (hello, R2 and C-3PO), and then were swallowed by a giant glowing bee colony — a street decked out in honeycomb lanterns and buzzing energy. The neighborhood truly shows off this time of year. Dinner ended just after midnight, but the dancing and drums were still going strong!

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Festa Major de Gràcia at 00:30 on a weekday

Cita 31: Almayer Coctail Bar -> Magatzem de ses Illes

Almayer Cocktail Bar

We started the night here, drawn in by the soft lighting, playful wall art, and a bartender who actually seemed to enjoy making drinks. Low-key and lovely, with just enough kitsch to make it memorable and just enough balance to make it tasty.

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Magatzem de ses Illes

A cozy, quietly confident spot in Gràcia serving Mallorcan cuisine with heart and no unnecessary extras. Think stuffed piquillo peppers, grilled meats, and olive oil that tastes like someone’s abuela still bottles it by hand. The space feels like a charming mix of grandma’s kitchen and a classical music salon—yes, there’s a cello on the wall.

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Cita 29: Karma -> Botero Muesum -> Catalan History Museum

Karma Coffee


A serene little café tucked into the Gothic Quarter, Karma serves carefully sourced beans with great espresso and quiet charm.

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The Botero Detour

On to the Botero exhibit at Palau Martorell. Welp, it turns out, it had ended… the day before. (Not mentioned online, of course.) So we pivoted, as one does, and landed at the Catalan History Museum instead.

Catalan History Museum

Free admission thanks to a broken AC, which was generous… and sweaty. Learned a lot. Laughed more. Not the Cita we planned, but exactly the kind we remember.

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Cita 28: Swagatam

Swagatam

A cheerful neighborhood Indian spot in Gràcia with friendly service, bright walls, and comforting plates of samosas, paneer, korma, and naan. Nothing fancy—just warm hospitality and rich spices. One of us loved it. One of us smiled politely. They can’t all be winners.

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Cita 27: NOA Chef’s Hall -> Whisper Sister

NOA Chef’s Hall

A destination in every sense, NOA sits on the Estonian coast with sweeping sea views and a Michelin pedigree that doesn’t feel like it’s trying too hard. The setting is slick Scandinavian minimalism; the food is maximalist in all the best ways—delicate tacos with edible flowers, caviar-topped halibut, and a wine pairing that kept the glasses full and the smiles steady.

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Whisper Sister

Tucked behind an unmarked door in Tallinn’s Old Town, this speakeasy nails the Prohibition-era mood without the fuss. Apparently, speakeasies are new to Estonia, and all the neighbors are very confused by the lack of signage. LOL! Leather menus, low lighting, and a bartender who was on-point with her Estonian-Irish accent—plus cocktails that can hold their own in any city. A strong finish to a great Cita and a perfect start to our time in a cooler Baltic climate.

Website | Instagram

Missing Citas


We did miss a few citas… kinda. Between visits from Kate’s dad, my sister Vicki, and a steady stream of friends, a few citas were happily hijacked. We didn’t always make it somewhere new, but we made it somewhere great—revisiting favorites like Berbena, Martínez, Come, and cookouts, all with a few extra chairs at the table.

Cita 26: Vivood Landscape Hotel -> Torre del Marqués

Vivood Landscape Hotel

Tucked into the hills near Alicante, Vivood offered a sleek private villa with a pool, a soundtrack of chirping crickets, and enough stillness to remember past travels—and start planning the next. Kate said the official “Cita” from this birthday getaway was at the next spot, but the floating breakfast in our private pool has to have an honorable mention.

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Torre del Marqués

A 5-star retreat in the hills of Matarraña, where stone walls, vineyard views, and stillness come standard. The highlight was our Picnic in the Field Tortilla, cava, a simple ham and cheese plate, and fruit salad under open skies—proof that the best meals sometimes come without menus. Bonus points for cards, good music, and zero restaurant noise.

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Cita 24: Bar Donzell -> Ugo’s Café

Bar Donzell

With just a handful of tables and zero interest in overpromising, Bar Donzell serves up lamb shank, pluma, and baked eggplant with cheese in generous, no-nonsense portions. Reservations essential. Hunger manditory.

Instagram | Website


Ugo’s Café

A bright new find in Poble Nou with cold brew on tap, iced lattes that hit just right, and the kind of neighborhood vibe that makes you want to visit Poble Nou again soon.

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Cita 23: Cafetería Moitama -> Onso Bakery

Cafetería Moitama

A laid-back café in Sant Antoni where the barista speaks more languages than you have fingers, and the flat white lands smooth. Quietly excellent and effortlessly kind.


Onso Bakery

Right nearby, Onso serves flaky, buttery pastries in a stylish, chilled-out space that fills up fast for good reason. Cold drinks on hand and plenty of room to linger.

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Cita 22: Casa Petra

Casa Petra

Tucked into a lively corner of Sant Gervasi, Casa Petra does traditional Catalan with enough modern energy to keep things interesting. We grabbed a table out front. Easygoing, unpretentious, and deeply local. The owner, originally from Buenos Aires, keeps the vibe warm, but the wine kept things cool.

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Cita 19: Pappa & Citti

Pappa & Citti

A nice walk on a cool spring evening to this Sardinian-style spot — kinda in San Gervasi, kinda in Gracia. The burrata tray arrived like it knew it was the main event.
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Cita 18: Casa Anita En París -> Solange Cocktail Bar

Casa Anita En París

The weather kept us local, and this Eixample bistro proved more than sufficient. Mediterranean style with good instincts—burrata, garlic-parsley scallops, meatballs, and a beef sandwich that didn’t need to try too hard. The Priorat helped, as it always does.
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Solange Cocktail Bar

To mark Cinco de Mayo and a certain first date from 1990, we headed to Solange—a dimly lit nod to James Bond and strong drinks. Margaritas were ordered for thematic accuracy.
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Cita 17: Vinus & Brindis

Vinus & Brindis

A tiny, well-curated wine shop in Sant Gervasi with just enough bar stools to feel like you’re in on a secret. Neus poured with care, introduced us to CORPINNAT (a very persuasive sparkling wine like Cava), and sent us off with a bottle (or two), and the quiet urge to make this spot a regular habit.
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Cita 16: Takearte -> Origin. -> Primate

Takearte

A low-key taco joint in Sant Antoni serving casual, Mexico City-style street food—no frills, just good fish tacos doing their job. Ideal for when you’re short on time but not on appetite.
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Update: Closed a week later. We thought the cockroach in the bathroom was just part of it being “authentic”, but maybe not.


Primate Bakehouse

Tucked into Sant Antoni like so many other great places, Primate delivers flaky medialunas, excellent baguettes, and a peanut butter situation that reminds me of what we used to get in the States.
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Origin. Specialty Coffee

A serene and pretty café in Sant Antoni, Origin. Specialty Coffee was… fine. It won’t make our coffee guide, but it was still a great table in the sun, a nice way to spend some time together.
Website

Cita 15: Mesa Lobo -> Orient Express

Mesa Lobo

A French-meets-Nordic bistro in Eixample that is just the right kind of elevated. We had an early dinner (8:00) so we could meet Q coming in from London.
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Orient Express Cocktail Bar

We still had some time to kill. This place had a full theatrical commitment to the train theme, right down to drink carts, conductors’ hats, and a view of the Croatian countryside. One part cocktail, one part Wes Anderson daydream.
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Cita 14: Entrepreneur -> Bricks

Entrepreneur

Modern food for modern minds. This Poblenou spot feels like it was designed by someone who owns three startups. But no sign out front, so maybe a marketing class would be a good idea.
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Bricks

Cozy café and another sign-challenged location. The girls next to us were targeted by pigeons, but they say that’s good luck.
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Cita 12: El Pa Torrra

El Pa Torrat

A Galvany mainstay since near Turo Park. It’s classic Catalan—bacalao, croquetas, and enough wood-paneled gravitas to make you sit up straight. I think the guy in the table next to us has been there since 1981.
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Cita 11: Bitter -> Dolores

Bitter Cocktail Bar

A Sant Antoni hideout with herby cocktails and enough charm to warrant its own design blog post. So I’ve heard.
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Señora Dolores

Natural wines again–so we went for Vermut! Fried delights, vintage décor, and we finally found out why people kept looking behind the curtains.
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Cita 10: Metl -> Ombú -> DShop -> Ancestral

Metl

Short menu, big heart. Mexican comfort food in Poblenou, cooked like somebody’s abuela lives upstairs.
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Ombú

Specialty coffee in a snug corner of the city. If you don’t like this spot, there are at least four more coffee places on this block alone!
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DShop

Located inside the Disseny Hub, this design store sells the kind of gifts you take photos of. Found Cam cool futbolin hooks and the patio a cool water picture.
Website


Ancestral

Craft brew & vermouth. I guess they have tapas too, but we come for the drinks. This one isn’t new, but was a perfect spot to linger before ending the cita.
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Cita 9: Glug

Glug

Mostly natural wines, a super-dope tiled bar, and a Catalan-Italian flavor profile that says “we’re not choosing sides.” Bonus points for being fun to say. And God Damn, maybe the best French onion soup I’ve had.
Website | Instagram

Cita 8: Elocuente Café & Libros -> Cafe Del Centre -> Forn Sarret

Elocuente Café & Libros

Books, brews, and just the right level of hush.
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Café del Centre

A 150-year-old institution still wearing its original woodwork. Order a vermut and pretend you’re in a black-and-white film.
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Forn Sarret

Architectural pastry. Historic façade, flaky interior. The kind of bakery where you end up buying bread or a pastry just to carry it around.
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Cita 7: La Pachuca -> Coto

La Pachuca

Almost all the way to the Mediterranean in Gotic, La Pachuca has margaritas, tacos, and enough neon energy to qualify as cardio. Loud in all the right ways.
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Coto

Coffee shop meets concept store. The espresso’s tight, the merch is local, and the vibe whispers, “hey, you should buy that t-shirt with the little piggy on it.” I did. Related to a favorite place in El Born… look for the streamers.
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Cita 6: Cosa -> Oido

Cosa

Italian-roast coffee and artisanal pastries served in a space for caffeinated bliss.
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Oído

A 1980s, nostelgic Catalan vibe — complete with communal tables and culinary nostalgia. And a kinda cranky owner who didn’t seem to care for the non-locals – the kind you find sometimes in Gràcia.
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Cita 5: Malparit

Malparit

Catalan cuisine with a bit of a spin. Sitting at the bar by the kitchen is a perfect place to watch the chefs who are dialed in on their dishes. Some really fun things to try and lots of good wine options.
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Cita 4: Malhumor -> Osom Nou

Malhumor

Don’t be fooled by the name—this place serves brunch with a smile (and a Dutch accent). Simple, and HUGE portions.
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Osom Nou

One of Poblenou’s hip, Instagram-friendly coffee spots. It will be part of our “Día de los Cortados.” Details to come…
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Cita 3: Bar El Pipino -> La Gratitud

Bar El Pepino

Natural wine is not our favorite thing. But the owner found us a good one! A relaxed energy and the perfect level of tight and crowded. A good new find in Gràcia.
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La Gratitud

On Carrer del Torrent de l’Olla, and as vibrant as its name suggests. We were not planning to hit this spot, but it called out to us, with one of our favorite Mercè posters over the bar.
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Cita 2

Cita 1: Vermuteria Lou -> Casa Inés -> Navy Coffee Bar -> Origo

Vermuteria Lou

A moody little spot in Gràcia with vintage signage and low lighting. It isn’t trying to look old, it is old. We toasted my Dad (Lou) with a nice vermouth.
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Casa Inés

Sleek, understated, and as we have learned since—quietly confident in its absinthe game. Next time!
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Navy Coffee Bar

Scandinavian in design and disposition—stoic espresso, minimalist seating, small and friendly.
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Origo

Rust-colored, bread-forward, and teetering nicely between design showroom and a breakfast nook.
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As I was enjoying oysters, a glass of wine, and a good book, my mind began to wander. “I feel like I’ve been here before.” I set down my book and pulled out my phone to look at our family “Been There Done That” Google Maps list. And I had been there. Not in that restaurant, but in that location. I knew it! That caused me to start browsing — finding other places that have changed in the time we’ve been here. There were some places I had been to as three different restaurants.

The city is organic and always changing. You might walk by a closed door a dozen times without giving it any thought, only to walk by and see a brilliant new restaurant or shop reaching far back into the space behind each building as if it has always been there. Or a favorite place that closes, only to be replaced by another favorite just a few weeks later. Or sometimes you don’t even notice an absence until something new pops up.

Our block, in the center of this photograph, is always changing. This project aims to follow and memorialize those changes over the course of months and years.

Memorializing our block

As I try to remember, “What was here before?” I realize I have an opportunity to memorialize the places on our new block from the start of our time here. So that’s what I am setting out to do. I grabbed our low-res Leica and began to photograph the places, walking around only our block. Since shops and restaurants have a – let’s call it a loosey-goosey schedule, I have grabbed some missing spots with my phone and clumsily tried to degrade them to match. But I plan to replace those with the same camera when I am able.

The four sides—Sea, Right, Mountain, and Left—each have their own personality. As they change, I plan to take new photos and follow the progression of each, seeing how our block changes over the months and years. This post, much like our block, will evolve as places change. Some already have.

The sea side

The right side

The mountain side

The left side

BCN Coffee Guide

Please, don’t come to Barcelona and drink Starbucks! This place is loaded with great coffee shops. If you’re like me and want to start your day with a Flat White, grab an Iced Latte or Espresso in the heat, or end your evening with a Cortado, then it’s good to know what spots are nearby. And it is certainly how you want to kill your jet lag on day one!

So we put together this little Google List of what we think are the best coffee places in town — spread out so you can find something in almost any neighborhood.

If you aren’t close to any of these and need a caffeine fix, and want to wander in somewhere new, look for a La Marzocco machine serving Nomad, Three Marks, or any other local roasters, and you’re probably in pretty good shape.

And nothing goes better with coffee than a good book (on the same list). Barcelona has many great English Book Stores or places with an English section. Our favorite is Finestres, which has such micro-categories (with all the languages mixed together) that you’re sure to find something interesting that you hadn’t heard of before. And they encourage you to relax, sit and read. And while not on our list, there are a lot of Re-Read Used Bookstores with pretty good English sections too.

Hope this helps you keep going as you explore all the cool spots in Barcelona.

Not just Barcelona. Not just walls. This is a grab bag of finely-tuned spray paint, clever stickers, cryptic stencils, and the occasional pure graffiti with something urgent to say. I take pictures of street art that catches my eye—usually wandering down some narrow street to see what there is to offer, occasionally while lost.